Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Jonn-E

DC summit 8-9

Recommended Posts

Just summitted Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route yesterday. Started w/ a 4 man team but had to drop one at Muir. Left Muir at 2:15am, last group out. Passed several groups (including an RMI one, who said they went fast?) and summitted about 8:30.

The weather was gorgeous and is supposed to remain so for several days. Only problem with this is the heat made the snow too soft on the descent, and crevasses are an issue above Ingram flats and in the Beehive. I plunged up to my knee in a hole of some sort in the beehive and a Bergschrund saved us by swallow a rockslide headed our direction. So start earlier on the hot days.

One thing to note: I was reminded of how important it is to be in excellent aerobic shape for climbing a mountain like this. I hit a ceiling of about 12,000ft, and everything above that I was sucking wind hard and getting weaker with every vertical foot. I didn't get sick or anything, I just wasn't acclimatized to those altitudes and didn't do enough running before hand to counteract that. Anyways, just a reminder to put in the roadwork before attacking a big one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats John , I've been on that route 3 times this summer and summited it twice . I am going again the 20th (I promised someone,but frankly I'm sick of it and would rather do something else)I have been leaving camp the last couple of times around 10pm to avoid that bad snow on the way down. The second time up there I left camp at 2:30 am and also found that too late of a start on those warm days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×