[TR] Marble Canyon + Shriek of the Sheep- 3/5/2006

[Don_Serl]

Climb: Marble Canyon + Shriek of the Sheep-

 

Date of Climb: 3/5/2006

 

Trip Report:

Craig McGee's posting on westcoastice.com (http://www.westcoastice.com/Page76.aspx) inspired Graham R and I to make "the drive" to Lillooet - the Shriek called! We got out of town at 4 a.m. Saturday, had the greasy winter-fuel breakfast in Cache Creek at 8 (at the Husky, which was more expensive than the Petrocan), and were in Marble Canyon below Deeping Wall at 10. A pair from Kamloops was halfway up the 1st pitch of Icy BC - they were the only other people we saw all day - they eventually climbed all 3 tiers (Air Care on the upper tier) on good dry ice. We led Deeping Wall centre and right - kinda hooked-out, so a give-away "big 4" right now - the left line was quite wet. We then did the 1st tier on Icy BC (very solid), then flailed trying to TR thru a blank section on Jolly Rancher. There's lotsa ice, and while some of it is wet, much is surprisingly dry.

 

After a long hot shower at Mile O and the requisite Greek dinner at Dina's (visting with Cam and Matt, who had climbed Loose Lady Sat) we retired early without sampling the pubs - it had been a long day, and we were getting up early (wimpy, eh?).

 

Had triple-bypass bfst at Reynolds after 6, got away about 7, and parked just beyond the gravel-pit at 8. I'd forgotten garbage bags and old sneakers, so I bare-footed it - Graham had heavy-duty bags, which he simply pulled right over his boots and taped at ankles and thighs - worked great. There were steps (from yesterday?) up the approach, which eased the going in the deeper snow high up. We were below the route before 10.

 

Graham led the 1st pitch up a 40m consistent 75º-80º flow on the left. This was one of the most beautiful ice pitches I've ever climbed - lots of little hollows and niches for dead-easy tool placements, steep but super-secure - pure pleasure. I got the upper pitch, which (as Craig says) is a comparative soft-touch right now. At the same time, it's very thought-provoking, cuz you initially have to climb about 8m on "fronds" - good hooks, but no pro, and delicate and balancy footwork and movement. As I passed right around the main column (good screws) to gain the ramp on its far side, things got quite drippy and wet for a ways. There was only one 4m-5m section of vertical pulling. The exit was tricky, cuz the ice was thin in spots, so I angled left, then cut back right.

 

The raps were all in place, with rings and/or links on 'em - good work, whoever set them [30m back to the alcove from the top, then 40m to the ground. Then 40m on the lower step, which we soloed to the left on the ascent].

 

Graham "bagged" back across the river (exactly where shown in the guide photo on page 205 - there's a "riffle" only about 8" deep), then put a rock in each bag and threw them back for me. Car-to-car 8hrs. Great route, superb location, nice views, good approach conditions, and excellent ice - if you ever want to do Shriek, this is the time!

 

Cheers,

 

Gear Notes:

the usual...

 

Approach Notes:

minimal snow on Shriek approach until above 1st step.

Edited March 6, 2006 by Don_Serl

[Don_Serl]

there are now a few photos posted on westcoastice.com:

http://www.westcoastice.com/Page82.aspx

and:

http://www.westcoastice.com/Page81.aspx

conditions are good; get out and enjoy them while it lasts.

 

note that there is a minor hockey tournament on March 12-17, but motels should be open again by this weekend. check ahead.

 

cheers,

[dbb]

great shots Don! shriek looks fun

[Don_Serl]

the tracks from the previous day were apparently Andrew Boyd's...

cheers,