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Looking for partners for Denali


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So let's get this officially figured out.




Here is what I am proposing .


* Be on the mountain the last week of May until second week of June.


* Acclimate at the 14k camp on the W. Butt.


* If weather is cooperative, make a run for the summit from 14k. this serves 3 purposes

1. gives 2 cracks at the summit

2. acclimate for the W Rib

3. allows us to scout out the descent for the W Rib.


* After a few rest days, we do the entire W. Rib in a light (relatively speaking)strong push


Let's get some emails and phone calls going, so we can get this done.

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I'm not trying to piss on your idea here but this is a really high risk way to go about putting together a group for Denali. When I was at the 14k camp a few years back it was full of groups with really poor dynamics who were busy failing, splitting up or going home because of it. Lots of them had met on the internat and spent very little time climbing before trying Denali.


I realize that it's hard to find partners and the internet is a good place to go looking but you really need to start earlier so you can find people and climb with them on a couple of big-ish routes before going to Denali.





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I agree with you 100%. There is alittle more to it then just this post. I'm about 95% of the way to having partners set up. More than anything I want to hear from anyone heading to Denali this year and share some thoughts. Maybe there is someone else out there who would like to climb the mtn this way but who's partners have had to back out for one reason or another. If we hook up great, if not, thats fine too.

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  • 1 month later...

I'll be up there the first week in June with a group from Portland. I hadn't thought of summitting from 14K, but that sounds a lot better than hauling camp up to 17K. Have you done that before? If so, how long did it take you to get from 14K to the summit? If not, how long are you anticipating?

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