St. Elias - Southwest Ridge beta/advice

[foraker]

Anybody done this route? Have done up to New Zealand Grade 3+ and have this as a goal for next year probably if I can find a partner that I can train with locally. Interested in any beta/advice.

[Ade]

It's written up in the Alaska select guide. I'm not sure what NZ 3+ equates to I think you'll have to give a link to something that equates grades to routes in N America or the (French) alpine grades.

[foraker]

Ade, thanks. I have the "Alaska: A Climbing Guide", I assume you mean that. I've read that but was just looking to find anyone's experience on the actual route. Best as I can reckon, along with the opinions of some others, NZ3 is probably the European AD grade, thus 3+ is AD+. Obviously (I hope) I'm not thinking of hopping onto this route without a bit more experience, but it's a goal to work towards.

[Ade]

That's the book. Great read isn't it!

 

As you can see from the guide the route isn't that technical but don't underestimate its length, remoteness and the weather.

 

A buddy of mine went to try this years ago and didn't even see the mountain in several weeks. Elias is higher and closer to the coast so it gets the worst weather.

 

I remember being in Gulf Air's hangar one year when they were trying to airdrop food and snowshoes to some guys who were half way up when it snowed another four feet and pretty much buried them.

 

Ade

[mattp]

Even though Saint Elias is very high and closer to the coast than many of the paks, I'd suggest taking a trip or two to the Saint Elias or Fairweathers first. Get a feel for the place and you'll likely have a more successful trip.

[foraker]

mattp, that's my plan. now i just have to find someone who likes the idea. ;-)