Fromage Posted December 21, 2005 Posted December 21, 2005 I had the opportunity to use a pair of the new Charlet Nomics for three days in Lillooet last weekend. Climbed at Marble, Synchronicity, and Rambles. While I liked these tools, I didn't love them as much as I thought I would. Being a longtime devout fundamentalist orthodox member of the Charlet Cult, I had pretty high expectations. The best thing by far about these tools is the grip. It is the most comfortable and natural feeling grip of any leashless tool I have ever tried. The adjustability of it is great, and once you get your size dialled in your hand fits into it like lego. The swing threw me off a bit. I expected the lively snap of the Ergo but found the weight was not as evenly distributed, probably due to the head weights. It felt like it took more power to get going, but connected well with the ice. The tool felt really stiff and damp, and I didn't feel like it gave me as good feedback on placement quality as Ergos. The angle of the grip, being slightly more vertical, made me alter my swing. The pick was great, stuck really well and didn't fracture the ice much, even on the chandeliered 60m penultimate pitch of Synchronicity. Charlet continues to get it right with their picks. I didn't get to use these tools on rock. Hopefully soon. Bottom line is the grips on these kick ass, but the tool as an entire package does not feel as good as Ergos on ice. I think a better setup would be Nomic grips at the Ergo angle on Ergo shafts. Given the progression of Charlet leashless tools thus far, it wouldn't surprise me if the ErgoNomic came out next year with this configuration. I still take my Quarks over any other tool, though. Quote
John Frieh Posted December 21, 2005 Posted December 21, 2005 What mechanism is used to attach the head weights? Does it appear to be robust enough to stand up to mixed climbing abuse? Are the weights located so far forward on the pick that it will limit certain pick placements drytooling? Quote
Fromage Posted December 22, 2005 Author Posted December 22, 2005 The head weights are attached with an allen bolt to the pick just forward of the head. They are pretty low profile, nothing like the Quasar/Pulsar headweights. The setup seems to be fairly stout. For drytooling if I was concerned about the weights getting in the way I would remove them. The setup I want to experiment with next is to only attach one headweight per tool and see how that affects the swing. Quote
Farrgo Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Is it just more or does it seem like Petzl-Charlet didn't think this tool out very well. I agree the new grip is an improvement. But, what is the deal with those jingus head weights? If they wanted to improve the performance of a primarily mixed (the rock part) climbing tool, why not make a hammer an option? Quote
marcus Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Is it just more or does it seem like Petzl-Charlet didn't think this tool out very well. I agree the new grip is an improvement. But, what is the deal with those jingus head weights? If they wanted to improve the performance of a primarily mixed (the rock part) climbing tool, why not make a hammer an option? If you wanted a leashless-specific alpine tool - that's what the BD Reactor is for. Nomics are just meant for play time peg-boarding at the Ice Park... Quote
featheredfriends Posted August 27, 2006 Posted August 27, 2006 Is it just more or does it seem like Petzl-Charlet didn't think this tool out very well. I agree the new grip is an improvement. But, what is the deal with those jingus head weights? If they wanted to improve the performance of a primarily mixed (the rock part) climbing tool, why not make a hammer an option? Because they already make one: Get 'em while you can. Model will be discontinued. The Nomic is still a great mixed climbing tool, however, and the absence of a hammer is not a hindrance. Do you really want to slot a hammer and pull on it with the pick of your tool pointing right at your face? Instant self-administered lobotomy if your placement pops. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Nomic? Quark Ergo? Quark? The Petzl Nomic in addition to the Quark, Quark Ergo, Aztar and Aztarex will be available to demo at the PDX Ice Festival Quote
Mark_Husbands Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 the absence of a hammer is a hindrance to hammering things i think... Quote
Tenacious T Posted December 13, 2006 Posted December 13, 2006 the absence of a hammer is a hindrance to hammering things i think... LMAO !! Quote
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