Vayu & 8800

[cowo]

A note a long time in coming. If you go back into Vayu and you didn't get your fill on its NW Ridge, then head over to the north face of Peak 8800.

 

Peak 8800 – north face

Marcus and I simuclimbed and belayed over scree-covered ledges, solid blocks and short cracks to get up the 90m headwall. The angle eased as we packed the rope and scrambled along a 4th class arête that led directly to the summit. The route is a little more serious and not as exposed as Vayu’s NW Ridge, but combining the two routes makes for a decent day of romping in the mountains.

 

The north faces of Vayu and Peak 8800 showing [1] NW Ridge (AD, low-5th, 330m, Knight-Rowbotham, 1995), [2] Bre-X Buttress (II, 5.8 A0, 7 pitches, Buda-Brayshaw, 1997 – not recommended), [3] North Face (AD, mid-5th, 250m, Dell-Wooldridge, July 3, 2005).

 

Dru -- did I draw your route correctly on this photo?

_______________________

Colin Wooldridge

[Dru]

Not exactly, at the first snow patch it climbs up and then traverses parallel to but higher than the line you have drawn on the next ramp system up the face over to the arete and finishes via the line you have drawn.

[stinkyclimber]

I barely recognize the peak, much less our specific line!! So...what Dru said.

 

I think a Coast Range Classic is emerging...a one-day trifecta of these three routes. Just like in the Alps.

[Dru]

I think that the real Coast MOUNTAIN classic (the Coast "Range" is in Oregon) will be the west ridge of Vayu.... real old school 10 tonne loose block wrestling and mantling on the shaky flake your belay cams are stuffed behind!

[jordop]

I think that the real Coast MOUNTAIN classic (the Coast "Range" is in Oregon) blah, blah, blah

Hey you better go correct Alpinist, I see they have fallen prey to your irritation too!

http://www.alpinist.com/the_climbing_life/

Keep on fightin the Coast Mountain Battle!

[Dru]

Have you ever heard anyone refer to the mountain range straddling the BC Alberta border as "The Rocky Range"? No.

[cowo]

Dru,

is this line closer?

upper (dashed) or lower (solid) line?

 

the most interesting looking lines are on the NW headwall (out of view, its on the other side of the NW Ridge) - steep razor-cut corners OR mixed climbing up the crumbling dikes (hence you want it frozen) - short tho, a couple of pitches at most.

[Dru]

more or less exactly like this red line