Suggestions to new area climbers?

[ectoid]

Hello,

my girlfriend and I are planning a trip to Washington (Seattle area) and possibly to BC to do some climbing. We climb moderate trad (5.7-5.8) and sport to 5.10 in the Denver area. I am trying to find information on the various areas such as Peshastin Pinnacles, Vantage, Royal Columns, Icicle Creek, City of Rocks, Smith Rocks, Skaha, and Squamish. However I am not finding the information that will help us determine where to go with respect to our climbing ability and accommodations (camping or other). I plan to buy a guide specific to the area we choose but don't have enough info to make a decision yet.

Any suggestions for areas that would be good for us to get safe, fun climbing in an area we've never been? Any resources you recommend?

 

Thanks for any help and informaiton you provide, Eric.

[Zee]

e-mail me your address and I can give you some beta. I couldn't get through to you via the site.

[Paul_C]

Well, I'd have to say come and spend your American dinerio up here in Canada. If you just want a fun sport area Skaha is great, there are a few gear climbs some of which are great, but most stuff is bolted. There is a huge range and some really good 10ish leads.

On the other hand Squamish is the king of trad around here. There are some sport areas, but most (but not all) of the sport routes are hard 10 to 13ish. If you are up here for a while then you may run out of good sport routes. Trad is simply fantastic. There are many great 5.6-5.9 cracks, some pitch, many multipitch. You are not likely to run out of them up here.

Camping is pretty easy at either location. Many campgrounds in Pentiction, and 3-4 near Squamish, including some of the best kind (the free ones)

Smith is pretty good for sport, but I would say that BC is where it is at.

just my opinion though.

Paul C

[dbb]

One good starting point is to buy the "Washington Rock" Falcon Guide book. It is a survey of most rock climbing areas in Washington, and seems to be just what you're looking for.

As for recomended areas, Probably the best sport climbing around here is to be found at vantage (aka Frenchman's Coulee). Steep columnuar basalt, in general. Great trad routes can be found at many of WAs popular areas: Index Town Walls, Leavenworth, Vantage, etc..

Royal Columns has many crack climbs, but only a few are in the range you indicated. As Paul said, trad climbing at Squamish kicks ass. There is more there than could fill your entire trip (lifetime?). Plenty of clean 5.6-5.8 cracks and face climbs, as well as .10 clip ups..

 

[forrest_m]

oh come on dbb, i cannot believe that you are seriously recommending vantage as a destination for an out of state road trip, especially when world-class areas like squamish and smith are in the conversation. the place is a pile and is only as popular as it is because the weather is so often crap on the west side of the mountains, and because the combination of short routes and soft grades make people feel good about themselves.

the only destination-worthy cragging area in the state is index, and but if you lead 5.8 trad, you'ld only have about one day's worth of climbing. leavenworth is a nice place to stop off for a few days (and I'm not knocking it as a great weekend destination from seattle), but i can't imagine planning a long trip around climbing there. It's nice, but mostly not spectacular, if you know what i mean. Tieton (royal columns) is cool, but like index, mostly at a higher grade than you're talking about. Pe-trashcan Pinnicles? You're joking, right?

for a good combination of moderate yet spectacular trad routes and sport routes at all grades, i'd recommend squamish or city of rocks. much nicer camping at the city (even though you need reservations, check the nat. park website), long multi-pitch moderates at squamish.

btw, i'm not ragging on my home state, it's just that the great part about climbing here is the mountains. when we want to crag for a solid for a week or more, we usually go out of state!

[Drederek]

Squamish is the place to go if its not too wet. If you go for a week you will get rained on. It dries out fast. The granite is very clean and very solid. The amenities are great. It is not a wilderness experience. There is an aquatic centre and lots of good food and cheap camping very close by. Leavenworth (icicle canyon) is more spread out and drier with fewer long moderates. Smith is a Zoo but fun for a few days at a time. Almost always dry there. Mostly vertical. Lots of sportclimbing in all grades. City of rocks is 12 hour drive and is remote with lots of moderate granite routes. If you get the guide dbb mentioned you can tour the state-not a bad way to go as all the areas have some good climbs. D

[Peter_Puget]

Those posts advocating Smith, Squamish or City as the best bets for several day visit by an out of towner are right on the money; however, out of those three Squamish has the highest chance of bad weather but in my opinion has the best climbing. How long are you planning to be in the seattle area? If you are going to be in the metro area for awhile I would suggest buying the Traveler's guide at REI ($10.00) and thats all youll need for the areas close to Seattle. Note that Leavenworth Vantage and Tieton are too far away to be included. Honestly for the best advice I think youll have to disclose more of your itinery.