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Chopping Block/Terror


Nelly

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not recent beta, but i think usefull. I've been in to the basin twice via godell creek.The route is straightforward except for the section from Terror creek up to the Barrier. That part blows. Out of the four times (twice in twice out) I've travelled in there, I only found the right way once. The other three time involved VERY steep cliffs and weeds from hell. In the red guide ole' Becky gives a great description of this section. Follow his words. Make sure you find the right area that isn't too cliffy.The bivy below the choping block rocks! And, yeah My bud and I climbed Terror. Cool summit, bad rock on the first couple of pitches. I remember raping off a moving piton [Eek!] The upper rock on the standard route is fun.

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If you can't navigate off trail - don't go.

 

The rock on the Chopping Block is realy nice, Terror is Terrible - so is Degenhart. Autohorn (sp) and Himmelhorn are o.k. by some routes. One of these is a nice scramble, the other had a nice *looking* 5.7 from the pass. The S facing couloir between the two can be steep for some people.

 

Have fun, leave no trace!

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A partner and I climbed the N.E. Ridge on the Chopping Block in late July 1987. Highly recommend it. We did it in leather boots and were fine. We camped on a slope clear across the valley, and to climb it we had to cross a little ridge, then skirt the full Terror Glacier and go up the Barrier. The Barrier was not bad, but has a reputation. The trip up McMillan W. Ridge W. Peak was easy and has killer views. We needed a rest day so skipped Inspiration, a decision I still regret. Oh well. Have fun.

 

John Sharp

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