shane Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 I'm looking for route and conditions beta for South Early Winters Spire. I'm planning to do the Direct East Buttress next week and am wondering how much snow is on the approach and any suggestions about the route/descent. Anyone out there done the route? thanks, +shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 Climbed it 10 days ago. No snow to speak of on the approach (from the hairpin). Descend the standard (S Arete) route. I find it easiest/quickest to just to keep walking south along the ridge until you reach on obvious notch and then head NE (snow at the top, talus at the bottom) back to the car. Light hikers or tennies are fine for the approach/descent. There seems to be an established rap route down the East buttress which might work with double ropes, although I'm not sure how straight the line is. Crossing from the north side of the buttress to the south side in the area of the first bolt ladder seems like it might be tricky. Anyone else tried it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEF Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 Ditto what Ben says. Approach from the road hairpin via scramble up major gully then work R to base of climb, which looked to have only bits of avoidable snow last weekend when I drove by. Descend S Arete, downclimbing and a couple raps. You can then scramble down to base of climb to pick up any stashed gear, or if you carried everything, just descend back to the hairpin. When I last did the climb several years ago, we carried only some food and a jug of water each, leaving approach shoes and packs at base of climb, and did not regret it. [ 07-30-2002, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: SEF ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 The only advice I would give is that it is a little tricky getting to the beginning of the second bolt ladder, wait thats not really advise is it? pm bobbyperu for beta. he has done it like 10 times or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 2 days ago I lead free every pitch. I have to tell you it is an incredible route! Every pitch was fantastic beyond my expectaions. I wish I would have hauled my pack up it though.The 5 books that it is in are very accurate , though they mix up the crux grades at times .The first crux is sustained for 1 long section around prow,(friction) good rest before and after . Really tough on the calves too.the second crux is shorter but steeper and it dont let up much in the 5.9 sections later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 I would also recommend the variation to the 2nd and 3rd? pitch to the right that climbs flakes to a hanging belay. another nice pitch reaches the ledge just below the start of the first bolt ladder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted July 31, 2002 Share Posted July 31, 2002 i second that! (it's the second real pitch, maybe the 3rd per the description in the nelson book) the cracks on the face are easier than they appear, as you climb towards the roof look right, you'll see a fixed sling around something (it's a chockstone and i think a fixed pin, but you can't tell from below). excellent climbing. you might want a bigger cam for the next pitch (leading to the base of the first bolt ladder), although you can get a #3 camalot in above the belay and then run it out (it gets easier the higher you go). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEF Posted July 31, 2002 Share Posted July 31, 2002 Wayne, quote: 2 days ago I lead free every pitch. Excellent work!! Couple questions. 1) When I did the route every other bolt on the bolt ladders were old with home made hangers that would only take small diameter biners. Still the case? 2) The cruxes you mention are the two bolt ladders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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