Jump to content

self-belaying on top rope


knotzen

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I looked through those posts and the link, but did not see any mention of the method that I have been using for the past two years for solo toproping.

 

It's a little lonely for a weekday climber out here in Otsu, Japan, so, since coming here, I have always done top-rope solos. I use the soloist device, but not quite in the way that their manual states -- I tie in to the bottom connection, as they state in the manual, but I do not clip the top of the device to a chest harness. Instead, I just have a 'biner clipped into the top (as is required to keep the cam from coming out). No chest harness is needed with this method.

 

There are 2 advantages to this method, provided that one is just toproping: 1) It doesn't matter if one falls upside down or right-side up; the device locks onto the rope and stops the fall regardless. 2) The rope tends to self-feed quite easily. Sometimes I have to reach down with one hand and tighten the rope, but not nearly as often as in the case when the top of the device is clipped to a chest harness.

 

For a backup, I tie a figure-8 knot on the rope, a little below the device, and then clip into it. Right after doing so, the device doesn't self-feed, but after climbing a little bit the device self-feeds. Since I'm by myself, I'd like to use two ropes; one for the self-belay, and one for the back-up knots. But I haven't been willing to pay the extra money...

 

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're right, the Yates Rocker looks like a good device.

 

I bought the Soloist about 10 years ago because I wanted to do lead solos. It works fine for leading, but for the last few years, I've only done top-rope solos. The way that I described above is also smooth and easy for top-roping, but if I was to buy a device now, I might get the Yates instead.

 

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...