self-belaying on top rope

[knotzen]

Probably this is covered somewhere?

 

If not, I found some good information of how to safely go climbin' when you don't have a partner, and you just have to get out, here:

http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/advanced.htm#trsolo

 

Are there any other ideas or safe practices folk use? Thoughts on the info. in the link?

 

TIA.

[knotzen]

Never mind, just found a thread:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/303658/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1

 

Carry on, then.

[JonNelson]

I looked through those posts and the link, but did not see any mention of the method that I have been using for the past two years for solo toproping.

 

It's a little lonely for a weekday climber out here in Otsu, Japan, so, since coming here, I have always done top-rope solos. I use the soloist device, but not quite in the way that their manual states -- I tie in to the bottom connection, as they state in the manual, but I do not clip the top of the device to a chest harness. Instead, I just have a 'biner clipped into the top (as is required to keep the cam from coming out). No chest harness is needed with this method.

 

There are 2 advantages to this method, provided that one is just toproping: 1) It doesn't matter if one falls upside down or right-side up; the device locks onto the rope and stops the fall regardless. 2) The rope tends to self-feed quite easily. Sometimes I have to reach down with one hand and tighten the rope, but not nearly as often as in the case when the top of the device is clipped to a chest harness.

 

For a backup, I tie a figure-8 knot on the rope, a little below the device, and then clip into it. Right after doing so, the device doesn't self-feed, but after climbing a little bit the device self-feeds. Since I'm by myself, I'd like to use two ropes; one for the self-belay, and one for the back-up knots. But I haven't been willing to pay the extra money...

 

Jon

[Billygoat]

the Yates Rocker is by far the best top rope solo device I've used. Real secure, simple, and runs smooth. You won't even know it is there....

[JonNelson]

You're right, the Yates Rocker looks like a good device.

 

I bought the Soloist about 10 years ago because I wanted to do lead solos. It works fine for leading, but for the last few years, I've only done top-rope solos. The way that I described above is also smooth and easy for top-roping, but if I was to buy a device now, I might get the Yates instead.

 

Jon