Thin Red Line

[verticalturtle]

I migh tget the chance to do Thin red line in a couple of weeks. Can I get any beta on stuff not in the guides, i.e. bad rock, fixed pro, or bad fixed pro (rusty 1/8 in bolts). Also any info on how involved the A3 is would help.

Any info is appreciated

Thanks

[W]

vt-

All fixed anchors are bomber.

The first pitch is a bolt protected clip up now (see the concord tower thread...). At the base, you can look up and see two sets of anchors if I recall. The bolt protected route goes to the left one, which is about 10 feet left of the other anchor. Right at the top it gets on to 5.9/10a for a move or two. The other way is pretty runout I hear (groundfalls have occurred).

The A3 on the next pitch isn't A3 at all. Maybe C2. About 10 feet of thin stuff- offsets, cam hooks. I had to place one pin on p3, and just below the anchor area are some loose blocks.

P5 is the crux...most of it is pretty easy aid but the second roof requires a #2 or #3 sawed off if I remember, in a very shallow flared hole. The mantle isn't too bad. P6 is mostly free, near the top particularly is some crappy loose rock and bad protection, but not harder than 5.8.

by the way, M+M ledge is not the greatest bivi spot, it is slopy and the level areas are small. And the "possible bivi for two" on Nelson's topo is possible if you don't mind sitting upright with your feet over the edge.