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North Ridge of Baker


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The route is in great shape! The approach over the coleman glacier is pretty easy given the heavy snow year, although we did see one crevasse with a 20-25 meter snow bridge, it was a huge one, really beautiful. Anyhow, I would highly recommend to anyone doing this route to go down low and do the full N Ridge, you get to see a lot more of the beautiful aspects of the area that if you just ascended the shortcut gully. I don't know what Nelson's book is talking about saying the ice step is 70 degrees, we encountered an ice cliff that could be climbed several different ways but unless you wanted to traverse quite far to either side you have to climb a little vertical ice. We climbed a 45 meter section, a lot of vertical and a little 70. What a nice route, the descent down the cow path sucks, but it's easy and the crevasses are minimal, we unroped and didn't need crampons once off the Roman Wall. The glissade down the trail on the way out is most welcome. I still don't understand though, why do people insist on crapping right on the trail, the coleman deming descent had random shit laid out right on the trail, complete with toilet paper. You've gotta love those cow paths!!!


[ 06-16-2002, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

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