Banks Lake Beta

[Matt_Anderson]

Hey all, I may be able to climb at Banks Lake next thursday, sat and sun, depending how plans work out.

 

I don't know where anything around there is. I don't have any idea where the climbing in the area is. I understand the climbers in the area keep info pretty close to the chest, but can anyone give me pointers?

 

I prefer roped climbing to bouldering. I'll try stuff up to low .12. But anything would be a blast.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

[pindude]

Matt,

The only printed guide is Bland's Inland NW Rock Climbs (http://www.inlandnwclimb.homestead.com/inlandnwclimb.html). Here's the only online info I'm aware of, and it's from the same guide: http://www.kxly.com/outdoors/climbing/

 

However, Bland in his guide took great liberties with naming routes at Banks, as he renamed most of them, and even some of the crag names. Eventually there will be a new guide for Banks that will be accurate, and more up-to-date. What he calls "Roadside Rock" is actually Highway Rock, where there are the most climbs...my favorites are on the lake (west) side of the rock, and you will find both sport and trad as you walk around Highway Rock from the east side, to the south, and up or down (including rappelling from top-rope bolts, for which you will need 2 ropes) to the west. Some of the lakeside climbs start from the shore, and are 2+ pitches in length. Beware of poison ivy immediately as you leave your car, and also rattlers, especially if you are exploring away from climber trails. There are bats in some of the cracks, as evidenced by guano (one spot on east side of Highway Rock as you go north from road, I don't think 2 climbs there are worth it).

 

Granite is not as sound as L-worth or Index, and most of the climbs are still fairly new, so test each hold and beware the occasional movable big block, including on established bolted routes. I think we'll always be dealing with some "portable" holds at Banks Lk--even after many of the routes get more traffic--due to its relative lack of soundness and the weathering it gets.

 

Other good (from easy to hard) climbing is in Northrup Canyon (Gibraltar Rocks in INW Rock Climbs), south of Highway Rock and along the dirt road directly east of the boat launch and campground. There is an obvious pull-out on the left, with a picnic table and ramp for unloading horses. From there, look on both sides of the canyon...there are more, and a greater variety of, climbs on the rock to the east, which is actually Picnic Table Rock (not "East Gibralter Rock"). The big rock to the west is the actual Gibraltar Rock. Lots of good bouldering around there too.

 

For mostly others' sake, it is not ethical here to have bolts next to cracks (how long will the remaining ones last?), or to write the route names at the base of climbs a la France.

 

Lastly, I just heard that 4 or so of the sport routes you first see at Highway Rock, when walking from east to south, have had the hangers removed. I haven't climbed there since last fall, but am getting rehabbed and am almost back on the horse, so will be out there and will confirm soon. Regardless, you'll have fun there.

 

--Steve in Spokane

 

[ 06-17-2002, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: pindude ]

[Matt_Anderson]

Thanks,

 

It sounds like there are sea cliff's there? If so, is renting a possibility on the lake. Where are the cliffs that are only accessible by water?

 

matt

[Dave_Schuldt]

Call Mountain Gear in Spokane, they might have more beta. Would like to see a trip report when you get back. I have heard great things about this placel

[pindude]

quote:

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Originally posted by Matt Anderson:

Thanks,

 

It sounds like there are sea cliff's there? If so, is renting a possibility on the lake. Where are the cliffs that are only accessible by water?

 

matt

---

Lake cliffs, yes, Banks is a 30-mile long man-made lake formed by Grand Coulee Dam. I haven't done any boat climbing there myself, but I'm pretty sure you can rent one out of maybe Electric City or at least the Grand Coulee area. You'll probably want to check it out before a busy weekend. You'll get surf/waves from wind and ski boats, the latter of which is out in force on hot weekend days. INW Rock Climbs does not cover Banks boat climbing; the only reference I've seen is in Climbing #102, article by Dave Whitelaw. He doesn't give much away, says there are about 30 routes on the islands west of Highway Rock, and this was early in the development of this area in 1987.

 

The Whitelaw boat routes don't get much traffic. Consider carrying at least a toothbrush...I typically pack for Banks a selection including a standard painter's wire brush and a small whisk broom, even for established routes as this area is still pretty new. If you're doing some exploring, an essential tool for FA's may be a crowbar for the time-bomb blocks. Look out for fishermen or paddlers down below as they are fairly quiet on the lake. All in all this is a pretty cool place, the views while climbing above the water remind me of the Roger Dean Yes album covers from the 70's.

 

Spokane is another 1.5-2 hrs east on Hwy 2. If you come into town here, one or two climbers at Mtn Gear may know about the routes, but I think your best beta will be in INW Rock Climbs, and Climbing #102 for the boat climbs. Lon of Mtn Goat for sure climbs there, so you if you're in town you'll have to stop in his shop too. If you're staying in the Banks or GC area, you'll have go to the dam and take in the 10 pm laser light and fireworks show. There's not a lot of action in town, but after a few beers it can be pretty dam entertaining.

 

Like Dave says, we're looking forward to a TR.

 

--Steve in Spokane

[Dave_Schuldt]

Dave Whitelaw shows up for pub clubs, maybe you can talk to him there. He does not post on this site, however, his friend mattp is a regular

[Uncle_Tricky]

If you don't mind getting the shoes wet and want to do a fun swim-start boulder problem, head to the boat launch on the N. Side of the entrance to Steamboat Rock State Park. Walk to the end of the right dock, jump in and swim east to the rocky point that juts out into the water. An obvious, really fun finger/hand crack with perfect jams starts up out of deep water. Climb up maybe 25 feet and then cannonball! There's also a long fun slab/friction/crack traverse on the W. side of the boat ramp. If you fall, you just pitch into the water. Great casual entertainment for 100 degree afternoons.

 

[ 06-17-2002, 10:47 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[Off_White]

I've boat climbed out there a number of years back, did some additional exploring too. Boat rental in Electric City. You could hand launch a canoe near Highway Rock too, and poke about handily, as long is it wasn't too windy. We found the slab that was shown in Whitelaw's article -- looked like nice slabby face climbs, 1/4" bolts. Across one of the channels from that slab, facing the highway (can't remember if the road was visible though) we found a nice crack that started as a steep undercling, 10c or so, with a #3 friend left behind. Bonus! I placed that cam twice yesterday. We put up a route just left of that, some delicate 11a face (bolt or two) to an inverse quartz dike- as if you split the dike open and made a crack. Exploring around the water bound cliffs is a real treat. We also put up a couple routes off of a road, does Taylor Canyon make sense? There were a couple large formations you could drive down and park between. We climbed on what would be the n face of the s formation. I believe there is a bolt on one of them. Kinda dirty/licheny though, couldn't say I recommend those. There is also a big tombstone type slab off to the left as you drive from Steamboat Rock to Electric City. We walked out there looking around, and found a couple 1/4" stubs on top of the big face, which looked like it would clean up into a couple really nice 5.10 face climbs. Have fun, its a great spot.

[Marty]

Matt,

Didn't you buy an Inland NW. Rockclimbs book? It has all the routes (with the exception of the ones at the Golf course) that are even near clean and all are bolted. The cracks and trad climbing could be good but at the moment the are nothing but moss and dirt fests. Also, Banks Lake is hotter than hell in the summer so bring the spf30. Also watch the Poison Ivy. I've never been there past March but some canadian friends told me the stuff is thick. Rattlesnakes can be an issue as well. Good luck.

[pindude]

quote:

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Originally posted by Marty:

[QB]Matt,

Didn't you buy an Inland NW. Rockclimbs book? It has all the routes (with the exception of the ones at the Golf course) that are even near clean and all are bolted. The cracks and trad climbing could be good but at the moment the are nothing but moss and dirt fests.QB]

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Marty,

This sounds like an obvious troll, but I'll bite. "The cracks...are nothing but moss and dirt fests"--huh? The cracks are not any dirtier than what you would normally find, and are way cleaner than what is on the west side of the Cascade crest. Additionally, the cracks at Banks are not any dirtier than the faces; in fact, when exploring or on newer climbs, I spend more time brushing the faces than I do cleaning out cracks. There are many Banks Lake climbs, both bolted and crack, that ARE clean and are not listed in your book. Banks Lake is a big place, and the climbing scene is relatively quiet. The issue is more that there is not much traffic at Banks, so that even on established climbs including some of those listed in your book, some further cleaning is still appreciated.

 

--Steve

[Off_White]

quote:

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Originally posted by Marty:

Matt,

Didn't you buy an Inland NW. Rockclimbs book?

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Oh! Shameless plug! Wrong to boot, the boat stuff I've done and seen was clean as can be, and definitely not in the guide. C'mon Marty, get a boat.