Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JayB

[TR] White's Ledge, NH - The Anti-Mox.- Endeavor,

Recommended Posts

Climb: White's Ledge, NH - The Anti-Mox.-Endeavor, 5.7 (+?)

 

Date of Climb: 9/5/2005

 

Trip Report:

After sweltering away the better part of the summer in Boston while unpacking, finding a job, and other eminently disagreeable tasks, the worst of the drudgery was over with and it was finally time for some climbing. Thankfully, the two month long swelterfest abated just in time for the big weekend, and I jumped at the chance to do something with my spare time besides sitting in front of a fan and curse the ill fortune that brought us here, instead of Utah.

 

Anyhow, we figured that everyone in the Northeast with a rack and some gas money would be descending upon North Conway, so we dug through Webster's guide and found something a bit more out of the way - a line called "Endeavor," at a place called White's Ledge.

 

This outing combined a casual approach, solid granite, bomber protection, interesting-but-casual moves, spacious ledges with tree-belays, pre-set rap-anchors, sunny-skies, perfect temperatures, etc, etc, etc - [Hence it's status as the Anti-Mox] all followed by some post climb lounging on the banks of the Saco River, then pizza and brews on the sundeck at Attitash. For a moment, I actually forgot that I was stranded on the East Coast for the next three years..

 

Route Description (poached from NEclimbs.com) and Pics Below:

 

"Description: Endeavor features wonderful climbing on generally good rock plus a 5.5 hand crack on the 5th pitch that is nothing short of amazing. However, with it’s intricate protection and somewhat difficult route-finding on the 2nd pitch it might not be a good choice for budding 5.7/5.8 leaders.*

 

Pitch 1: Climb straight up to the first tree ledge. 30’

Pitch 2: Climb straight up to the next pine tree on a comfortable ledge. You’ll have to look carefully to find protection. 5.7+

Pitch 3: Clip a pin right off the tree belay and climb up and right to the headwall. Move through the headwall to the tree ledge at an obvious weakness, staying well left of the rockfall area on the right. Be careful of loose rocks on the ledge.

Pitch 4: Climb a short slab up and right to a belay at a natural thread just below the start of the upper slabs.

Pitch 5: Climb up and right to the hand/toe crack. You’ll probably have to belay about 1/2 way up the crack at a stance. 80’-90’ 5.Pitch 6: Continue up the crack. Where it ends, either head right to a tree ledge, or left to a belay at a tree, just right of a large ledge. From the left belay you can get to the ground where you started in 3 rappels. 5.5

Pitch 7: Continue up a crack on easy ground. Follow a bushy gully to the top of Mt. Stanton"

 

White's Ledge

1282WL7.jpg

 

View from P2

1282WL1.jpg

 

View from upper slabs - top of P5(?)

1282WL2.jpg

 

View from top of P6

1282WL3.jpg

 

Saco River Valley

1282WL4.jpg

 

Saco River

1282WL6.jpg

 

Route

1282WL7edit.JPG

 

Pitch 5 Crack - missed this one on the way up but it looked pretty sweet.

1282WL5.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Gear to #2 Camalot. Singles and a set of nuts should be adequate, but a couple of extra finger-sized cams might be convenient.

 

Approach Notes:

Per Webster's description. Gate mentioned in book is no longer there. Look for two single-car width pullouts on the left to find the trailhead, and stay left at all forks in the trail.

 

P1-2, and P4-6 can be combined with a 60M rope. Seemed like there was abundant, bomber, pro on every pitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice JayB, that is a fun little climb, though on a Labor Day weekend I don't know if I would have chosen a south face like that one. It gets hotter than hell up there. Try some of the other routes they are nice too, great place to get away from the crowds and do some early or late season rock.

 

BTW did you find my nut tool up there? I left it at top of the climb about 8 years ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks fun! Glad to see you're avoiding the full-on atrophy.

 

E-mail me if you think you'd have a day to climb when you're back in town - I'd take a day off fer sure. Remember to bring back the ice screws . . . it's starting to get cooler here!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey Ken:

 

Any other rec's for NH?

 

A.D. Will be in touchl. Word.

 

I´ve been there once for about a week. I thought Cannon Cliff was really nice. Moby Grape is moderate. Cathedral Ledge is really, really good. Thê Prow is a nice free climb and to the left of it is a nice dihidral, Recombeast. Don´t miss the Gunks, they might be a bit far, but besides the Cookie in Yosemite and Index, they are one of the best crags I´ve ever visited.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×