Icy Peak (North Cascades)

[Cando]

Anybody got beta on Icy. Been up to Ruth via hannegan pass last June and got a look at icy. I'm looking at approaching via the n.f. nooksack this time. How's the rock on the pinnicle? Howabout the west side glacier route? other useful?

 

[dkemp]

We clambered up icy last august. at that time, of course, the glacier was hard but not icy - accepted crampons nicely. The final summit was scary to me - fourth class rocky gully thing - you'd get hurt real bad if you took a spill. Two of my pals scampered up it without using rope. I balked so they tossed me a line and hauled my sorry ass up it.

[dR]

Hey...I did the Ruth-Icy trip last september and it was quite memorable...you'll have more snow of course, but here goes...climbed ruth then descended toward icy on the west flanks of ruth..gully leads down to connecting bench...gully was very loose scree (snow now?)...from here stay on the bench top for sure as you make your way towards icy...trend to the west side of bench as you approach glacier...don't go too high on the glacier, pretty much a straight line toward craggy outcrop on the right of the peaks...there is a notch here to gain S side access...i began to climb the E peak first via the very loose west arete if you can call it that, then traversed to the west face, 5.2 only a couple moves and flaky somewhat loose but more predictable...downclimbed that face to retreat back and climb fun little 3/4th SW route on W peak..downclimbed that (there are rap anchors there)..retraced steps back to ruth...important thing...when you reach that loose gully leading back up towards ruth take the E routh beside the gully, not in it...was quite quick and not so unsavoury...might be snow though??...good day trip and nice way to see the wilder side of shuksan and peek into the pickets...goat there too! enjoy