[TR] Snowfield Peak- Neve Glacier 9/1/2005

[DonnV]

Climb: Snowfield Peak-Neve Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 9/1/2005

 

Trip Report:

There are several other reports on Snowfield Peak in the TR index, but I thought a few glacier pics of this time of year might be interesting. After reading Juan's recent post and recommendation for this trip, and since I'd never been there, I went up Wednesday and Thursday in search of great views, huckleberries, and maybe even Juan's bear. I never did see the bear, but both the huckleberries and the views are among the best I've ever seen in the Cascades. The summit of Snowfield is worth every bit of the work of getting there. It's really one of the best Cascade viewpoints I've been on.

 

Looking northwest from Snowfield Pk toward the Southern Pickets

 

Looking south toward Buckner, Boston Basin peaks, Austera, Klawatti, Eldorado, etal.

 

Right now the Neve Glacier is still passable but is incredibly time-consuming. I've really never felt quite so much like a rat in a maze. Hopping around on the ablated areas of the glacier was both fun and irritating. There were a few places where I reluctantly moved onto some snow-covered areas where things were just too open to find a way through otherwise. That was just a touch nerve-wracking, and once any significant snow falls it'll be a lot harder to know what's under your feet. Right now I'd say it's still a pretty safe solo, but definitely not a fast one due to all the weaving back and forth looking for bridges.

 

Snowfield Peak and the broken Neve Glacier from near the Colonial-Neve col

 

Crevasses on the Neve Glacier

 

I started out with a summit bivy in mind, but ended up spending the night at about 7900' at the base of the final talus ridge. The summit looked rocky, with no snow or water nearby, it kept getting engulfed by clouds rolling through, and there was a great site on the ridge with great views both north and south. I melted snow, but running water was no more than 5 easy minutes to the south. After a windy night, I scrambled to the top and spent about an hour there spotting peaks before heading down.

 

Evening clouds rolling over The Horseman, on the ridge west of Snowfield Pk.

 

Hozomeen and Jack Mtn at sunrise from bivy below Snowfield. Colonial in foreground.

 

On the way out I spent about an hour at the camp at the base of the Colonial Glacier just watching the waterfalls there. Very nice spot, and a good place to soak up the scenery before starting the descent. This is a great non-technical trip. A steep and dry approach, but good camping options, easy glacier travel, and unbeatable views. And, for those so inclined, I think this would make a great car-to-car.

 

The awesome waterfalls at the 5900' moraine camp at the base of the Colonial Glacier

 

Looking north to Hozomeen from the 5900' camp

 

 

Gear Notes:

Axe and aluminum crampons.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is steep and dry but pretty easy to follow. Brush not bad at all right now.

[Chad_A]

Once again, nice TR, Donn. Don't know if I'll make it up there this year, but I think it'll be the destination for Rob and Megan for next year.

 

Congrats! Looks like you had a good time.

[magellan]

Beautiful. Thanks for the pictures and the inspiration.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Did you notice the condition of the upper reaches of the Colonial Glacier (right below the Colonial-Neve col)? A friend and I descended that ice yesterday after completing the Eldorado-Snowfield traverse. The ice near the col is catacombed with huge, thinly-roofed caves. The cave roof (at least near the top, where I looked) is thin enough to be translucent. The roof has collapsed in a few places.

 

This area seems very dangerous to me. We made our best guess at where the strong places were, and tip-toed down the ice on our campons as quick as we could. I think these caves are sure to collapse within the next few years, or sooner. Be really careful if you go up there.

 

Or did you find another way to reach the Colonial-Neve col?

 

As an aside, several recent posters have mentioned using aluminum crampons on their trips up Snowfield. Maybe I'm just getting wimpy, but I was really glad I brought steel crampons on our traverse. I hate the way aluminum crampons feel on hard ice. They don't feel secure to me.

[DonnV]

Lowell, I did see those catacombs and also picked my way slowly through that area. Coming up from below, I felt I had a very good idea of where to go and where not to. But I was aware that I wouldn't have the same visibility coming down and stopped a while to make sure I could retrace my path the next day. As it happens, I decided to climb Colonial on the way down and so went back via the next notch/pass to the east, which puts you right on top of the east lobe of the Colonial Glacier. From there it is an easy descent down to the toe of the glacier. If anyone wanted to avoid any danger near the Colonial-Neve Col, they could use that route both up and down. A bit more elevation to gain and lose, but very straightforward and easy access to the Neve Glacier. I was off of snow for only about 100 feet, but for most of the season you could stay on snow all the way. And, I might add, plenty of flat ground and running water for camping up there.

 

Colonial-Neve Col is the low notch in the center. The alternate route is the snowier notch to the right. This is from the summit of Snowfield looking to the northwest.

 

Interesting comment on the aluminum crampons. There was a lot of ice on the route, but nothing too steep, and I felt very secure. The thought did occur to me out there, crossing some narrow bridge on the Neve, that I was glad I had recently sharpened them a bit. I find myself using my aluminums more and more.

 

Good job on your traverse. You guys signed in at Marblemount just before I did, so I knew you guys were out there. After having now seen that area from the north, I have to put that trip on my list!