[TR] Liberty Bell Group- Easy Routes 9/1/2005

[AlpinistAndrew]

Climb: Liberty Bell Group-Easy Routes

 

Date of Climb: 9/1/2005

 

Trip Report:

Masternate32 and I went to WA Pass for 2 days. The weather forecast for the west side looked a bit unpredictable (though it turned out nice). I hadn't climbed in a while so I was in sore need of doing some climbing and lots of it. So we headed for where the weather was good. Nice weather (though damn cold in the shade). Climbed Liberty Bell, Concord and N. Early Winters on Wed. Thrusday left the parking lot at 10 (yeah we slept in). Climbed Lexington and to finish off the day soloed the S. Arete of S. Early Winters Spire. We started late in the day both days, but we moved pretty quick and were back at the car in he early evening. We met two dudes at the WA Pass overlook who gave us beers, whoever that was if you post on here, thanks a lot, that was fucking awesome. Overall good times. I cant wait to get on some more mountains before the snows come here in Fall

 

Gear Notes:

Rock gear, rock shoes

 

Approach Notes:

Those gulleys to access Liberty Bell/Concord and Lexington are so chossy it blows my mind, I ascended/descended too many trundle gullys for my liking, oh well.

[Blake]

The weather forecast for the west side looked a bit unpredictable (though it turned out nice).

 

[Off_White]

What route did you do on NEWS? I'd always assumed the "easy" way up was the rap route, but my last time down that I realized just how horrible that would be. I gather one goes up left around the huge chockstone, then continues up gully past the rap route to climb up? Would you call it fun and recommendable?

[Farrgo]

Off White -

 

The rap route is actually a pretty interesting climb. You go up left of the chockstone, then traverse right on 5.6ish terrain past a mank bolt to the top of the chockstone. From there you walk up the gully to the notch, and follow 4th class terrain to the summit. I would recommend the route if you want and easy route to the top, not one with lots of rock climbing. Although, it is pretty interesting climbing in the gully system.

[Off_White]

That rap gully right off the top seemed pretty chossy, particularly the steep part above the last anchor. This is the anchor that features a couple dodgy pins and a hammered in nut, in a deep cleft. Reading Beckey afterwards made it sound like the right way up involves going up to or above the second large chockstone, all the way to the notch? Maybe I've always just rapped the wrong junky way

 

Anyway, it'd be nice to have something moderate in the toolbag for taking someone out, avoiding the traffic in the Beckey-Lib Bell gully as well as SEWS S. Arete, I'll have to remember this recommendation.