SemoreJugs Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 (edited) Took some friends climbing for the first time today at Far Side. Not a bad place for beginners and less zoo-ish than Mt Washington and Deception crags. Did some VERY SHORTies. 99 Grit (5.9) which everyone got up! Not bad for first climb! Agreed, the grades at 38 are soft. But still, not too shabby. Did the 10a and 10c to the left of that. Then, I saw the glory route. The testpiece. The 11d by which all 11d's should be judged... For me to POOP on! I have no idea what the name was. It was a cool-looking corner/roof with a mantle exit. I never buy a guidebook for sport crags since you can always just borrow someone elses (suckers). Naturally, I saw it as my duty to impress everyone there and made them think I was a hardman, despite my true deficencies...heh...heh... Well, I was able to onsight it. Funny thing is, I haven't been sport climbing in over 2 months. Havent been bouldering or TRing in the gym in about 2 months. Mostly been doing alpine trad in the upper 9, lower 10 range, grade II-III, lately. And thats the hardest O/S or Redpoint I;ve ever done. Honestly, it was really just a protected highball. Therefore, I must reason that it is more like 11b, or that gyms are BS and I should save my money and use it to buy PBR to liquor up the girls at the crags instead. After the gritscone warm-ups, we ventured up to find the Interstate Wall. After blundering around the Gun Show area and doing a lot of up and down, we located the Interstate. The left side is a piece of junk. There were better routes on the middle and right. However, everyone was already tired and pissy from the hike up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right, b, a, select, start... so we settled for some shady routes that went at 5.fun. Swam in the river on the way out. There were lots of daisey dukes, 16 year olds and toothless 40 year olds splashing about. The PBR, Texas-sized pickups, and gunracks were in effect!!! Sweet! Yay. Here's to a chill day of cragging. Nice reprieve from the stress of Alpine and MUCH easier approaches!!!!! <b>Gear Notes:</b> circleheads, 4 lost arrows, bongs, leepers, do-whiz-its, barnacles, scabies, piss-watery beer (to ward off dehydration). To my dismay, there were no goats about. WTF? Edited August 8, 2005 by SemoreJugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I just found this TR, good read. I see that you took some bongs and PBR, excellent choice of pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SemoreJugs Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 yes. Bongs and PBRs are critical on ascents of this magnitude... I only wish I brought the dynamite and 30 aught to ward off the PBR poachers and bong roachers... My "rack" never had a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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