[TR] Squamish - Ultimate Link-up 7/17/2005

[Squid]

Climb: Squamish -Ultimate Link-up

 

Date of Climb: 7/17/2005

 

Trip Report:

Clamponeer and I climbed 'The Ultimate Link-up' at Squamish last weekend.

We mostly followed the link-up described in Bourdon's guidebook, except we took 'Granville Street' off Broadway.

Clamponeer had climbed Banana Peel before, everything else was new to us.

 

Part 1. "The Bottom Line" 3 pitches of slab to access the Apron.

 

Part 2. "Banana Peel" More slab, easier. The guidebook calls this 8 pitches, but this is a great place to simul-climb and save some time.

 

Part 3. "Granville Street" 2 rope-stretching pitches takes you to the forest, and the start of the path to Squamish Buttress.

Part 4. "The Forest" Our only route-finding issues were here. From the top of Granville Street, go up and left until you find an obvious path. Follow this left to the edge of the gully, boulder up a bit and back right onto the path. In a bit, take the obvious left fork in the path, and around the gully (fixed ropes). The Ultimate Everything starts at the belay bolt.

Part 5. "The Ultimate Everything" It's ok. I liked the first pitch and and the last pitch (10b variation), but everything in between fades from memory.

There is some fun climbing on the funky dike.

 

The final pitch- a traversy hand-fist crack- was enjoyable, and a great way to end the route.

 

And topping out on the Chief is a great reward.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rack to 2 inches

comfy shoes

[AlpinistAndrew]

That's a great route. I've climbed it twice now, and may climb it again sometime. You really feel like you've accomplished something getting to the top of that thing. The 10 pitches of Ultimate Everything are pretty sweet, especially that last pitch.