Challenger Info

[off_the_hook]

Are the fixed pins on the rock step at Mount Challenger sufficient enough so that carabiners and slings are all that is needed? Would a 30m rope suffice? Any info/tips on the route would be greatly appreciated.

[slothrop]

Yes, just bring three runners. Go all the way to the eastern edge of the glacier before heading up. You can't really see the summit until you're pretty close to it. Dunno about how much rope you'll need. 50m certainly would work, tho.

[iain]

I'd bring some small light gear like a few nuts, tricams, or hexes just in case. Especially if you plan to go over the imperfect impasse, which is considerably more complicated than the top of challenger. I think it's a good plan to not rely on fixed stuff being there. Those pitons have been there for years but who knows. If it is damp or whatever you might want some more gear in, or on the simul climbing traverse over there. I don't know how much experience you have. I'm not sure if a 30m would get you down if you rap.

[iain]

of course you could end up hauling all that crap up there, not use it, and I'll look like a total a-hole. I remember a tri-cam or two was used to cross the impasse, and maybe a nut was placed at one point.

[slothrop]

Or just go over Whatcom Peak's North Ridge, where pro is useless and the rock is crap. Then you'll appreciate even more the 30 feet of sweet granite on Challenger.

 

Oh, by "eastern edge of the glacier" I mean go as far east as you can without dropping toward Luna Cirque.