[TR] Mixup- East Face 7/17/2005

[catbirdseat]

Climb: Mixup-East Face

 

Date of Climb: 7/17/2005

 

Trip Report:

The right side of Gunsight Notch was all melted out with a huge moat, so we took the left side. There was an easy step across from the snow to dirt on the right. There's a boot path that lead around the crag to the other side where the climb begins.

 

We started our climb from the South side about 50 ft down, rather than 100 ft as Beckey mentions. The start is a bit steeper, but protects and quickly gets easier. Belayed from a horn where there are two ways up, an easy but longer gully on the left or a short chimney on the right. I went right. It was a little wet in places from rain the previous day. Protection is a bit sparse, but the climbing is pretty easy. Even though it was fourth class, I was happy to be wearing rock shoes, as the rock is quite slick.

 

The stair case scramble was really cool and fun. There was a short pitch of low fifth class rock that leads to a small notch west of the summit. It protects well. We went just to the right of the notch and stepped across.

 

Gear Notes:

Medium nuts, pink and red Tricams, #3 slider nut, green and red Aliens, Clog #2.5, couple hexes.

 

Approach Notes:

Traverse over Mixup Arm from Cascade Pass was easier than usual. One mud gully to cross.

[plexus]

The staircase is pretty freakin cool scrambling. One of my favorite let's get up somethng that doesn't scare the bejeezus out of us.

[philfort]

Did this route today - it was a nice day in the mtns, perfect temperature, and several goats who didn't seem interested in my pee .

Moat access is still easy, but the climb on loose dirt to the col is gross. I almost fell into the moat when rocks collapsed beneath me.

I stitched up the 4th class real good - I suck . But the staircase scrambling was great.

The Mixup Arm climbers path is in the best shape I've ever seen it - a cakewalk.

 

We were dumb and took a 30m rope. Would have been nice to be able to rappel more than 15m

[tread_tramp]

I was up there with a group of mounties a few years back. Two of us got as far as the right side of the notch in the ridge; spitting distance from the summit. Then everyone decided they wanted to go home. Rather than risk a mutiny, I said OK. I would like to get back up there though.