[TR] Fortress Mountain- East Ridge 7/14/2005

[Keith_Henson]

Climb: Fortress Mountain-East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/14/2005

 

Trip Report:

On Thursday, July 14, 2005, I left Trinity under blue skies and started up the old Red Mountain mining road heading toward Fortress Peak with the intention of climbing the east ridge.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=11874&sort=7&cat=500&page=1

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

4-1/2 hours later I pitched the Zoid at 6500 feet on the headwall of the Chiwawa Basin between Red and Chiwawa Mountain.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

At 7:15 on Friday I began the couple mile hike toward the base of Fortress, traversing the headwall at the 6400-6600 foot level on hummock and polished glacial slabs, and very occasionally, snow. I was concerned to see lenticular clouds to the southeast and later to see rain falling in the distance. By the time I crossed the toe of the south ridge of Chiwawa and began climbing toward Fortress, the blue ski ahead was replaced by gray.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

I was thankful to reach the excellent snow as I climbed toward the east ridge. However, there was a couple hundred feet of no snow and I found myself on a steep and dangerous mix of dirt, gravel, and big boulders. I gingerly made my way to the right and climbed on big, loose, and treacherous boulders—slightly safer. I was thankful to reach the final couple hundred feet of steep snow leading to the east ridge.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

When I topped out at the ridge at around 8300+ feet, my heart sank at the view. Rain clouds were moving in swiftly below me on the nearby peaks and I could see rain falling. Though only a couple hundred feet vertical and a quarter mile away from the summit, I decided to turn back. For me, solo climbing dictates a conservative approach.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

Before long, Fortress was swallowed by clouds and by the time I reached the toe of Chiwawa’s south ridge it was sprinkling. The sprinkle turned to rain which continued all night and even until I stood in the parking lot at Trinity on Saturday at 9:30 A.M.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear: Ice axe, helmet, ski pole. gaitors would have been nice

[Stefan]

Keith.

 

Great to have met you on the trail.

 

I did Chiwawa, and then followed your footsteps up to the summit of Fortress....traversed over to Massie Peak and then down.

 

PM me and you could be on on my email list...and maybe sometime you would like to join me. I live in Auburn...I am always looking for more southern Puget Sound folks...becuase they are so rare.