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Athabasca North Face


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You wont need rock pro for the mixed section.

Right below the rockband is nice ice, just get in a 22cm screw. On the right hand side of the band are some good fixed pins, just 2-3 feet apart, that you can clip (or hook with a tool, hehe). The band is fairly short, about 2 body lengths on the right hand side. After that it immediately transitions back to thick water ice. Just bring screws. After the rockband, about 30 feet up, is a belay on ROCK to the RIGHT of the exit gully. I missed it when i lead this pitch, and set up a belay in the gully off screws. However, take the time to get to the rock belay, as there is no shelter for your belayer if you set up in the gully. We ended up moving the belay, and it was good we did.

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