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Thinking of doing cockscomb route in early September. Is someone been up there? Any info in regard to snow type, temperature, crevasses pattern and such? It will be greatly appreciated

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Neri Carmi

nericarmi@yahoo.com

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Posted

Neri,

Three of us tried to do the Park Glacier this past weekend (11-12 Aug) and got skunked. The weather was fantastic, but the impending crevasses got the better of us.

Basically we got to the towers (campbell towers?) about 2miles past Camp Kiser, close to the base of the Rainbow Glacier. What we saw above made us turn back without going any further...

It was a *massive* field of un-navigable crevasses above that point, with 3 huge uncrossable crevasse systems. Then the coup de grace was the shrund which (through the binocs) looked like you could hide 3 or 4 busses in it no problem (and there was nowhere to traverse and go around it). The route is IMHO unpassible unless you want to do it 'seige style' and take about a week to get through the glaciers.

My recommendation is to forget about the Park/Rainbow Glaciers until next May. Give me a shout if you have any more specific ???.

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Put a high price on your own head, or rest assured, no one else will.

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