DOME?

[Nick]

Can anyone report on the normal route up Dome (via Dome Glacier)?

[TYSON]

Climbed dome 2/3 years ago via the dome glacier route.It is a long way.When I did it we climbed over at least 30 windfallen trees on the steep side hill going up downey crk.The turn up bachelor gave us a little trouble finding the trail at first.That leg of the trail was really brushy and pretty steep.We camped at the lake ( for shame).The route from there is pretty much a long traverse to the toe of the glacier.The icefall is where we roped up.We headed straight up to the left of the ice and reached the fairly level traverse of the glacier.The weather was horrible when I did it and we pretty much relied on gps for navigation. I only noticed one small open crevasse at the time, it was near the NW peak(?) like under it.we did an end run and headed up to the col.The climb up that gully was pretty weird.Just a bunch of half frozen mud and debris mixed with snow. it felt as thought it was all just going to ooze right downt to the glacier.From the col go a hard right and ascend up for a way then up and right to a small flat area where the rock ridge starts scramble the ridge.Anyway thats pretty much all I remember I knoe it is not current but I hope it helps.Be sure to file a report if you do it I would like an update.

Tyson-HSA /RBCC

[robertm]

The trail up to cub lake is in great shape. From there a straight forward traverse over Itswoot ridge to the col. A great "hike" with awesome scenary but not much of a climb. The variation in the Nelson guide (SE peak to NE peak traverse) looked "out" due to huge horizontal crevasses across the face.

If you are going up there and want some rock climbing on stellar rock try the S. ridge of snowdome. It is on the way, fun and moderate.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000135.html

[Nick]

We climbed Dome on the 19 of August. The weather was great and the hike in is indeed very beautiful. The above description of the route seems very good to me. The only changes I would note is that there were a couple more crevasses open, but we easily zig zagged between them, and the steep gully that you describe as oozing mud was dry but with a lot of very loose rock to scramble precariously over. We met four parties coming off the Ptarmigan. One party included a dog. From the summit of Dome Peak we watched the dog lead a rope of four across the Dome Glacier. This was a wonderful trip.

[AllYouCanEat]

We will have a story and pics in a few weeks at http://students.washington.edu/benman/ . The Normal Route up to Dome Peak is still in good shape with only a few cracks open on the Dome glacier. Since we had skis (we needed our august ski) we wanted to go up the steep face that rises up to the SW summit. The climb is still possible, but has patches of blue ice and a crack that spans the lower face. We crossed on the left across a snow bridge on the way up and skied down the center of the face on the way down over the crack. We found the face to be 50+ degrees with a stretch or two at 55 degrees. We skied/climbed AUGUST 29 and 30. The area is very nice, but a hard two day trip especially with skis...

[This message has been edited by AllYouCanEat (edited 09-03-2001).]