ELDORADO PEAK

[EJohnson]

2 weeks ago, me and my girlfriend did via Eldorado Creek. Classic North Cascade approach straight up to tree line. Spent the first night around 5600 ft in the basin. In the morning we moved camp to the rock island at the base of east ridge around 7700ft. Great camp site incredible view. Room for 2 person tent and there is three other bivy sites on that island too. Running water below the bivy sites. The east ridge was a lot of fun/technical easy. We did use a running belay on the snow arete. We also did a tour of Inspiration Glacier and messed around on the rock spires. The next day we return to our first camp site and walk out the following day. Very enjoyable trip.

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

WE ARE PLANNING A TRIP TO ELDORADO PEAK THIS WEEKEND AND JUST WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS BEEN UP THERE RECENTLY. WE PLAN TO HEAD UP SILBLING CREEK ON HIDDEN LAKE TRAILHEAD AND TRAVERSE TRIAD...

THANKS

[Nick]

We took the same route to Eldorado's summit as EJohnson above. Four of us left our car at 6 pm June 25 and hiked up to bivy at the "rock island" by dusk. The next day we got up at 5 am and cruised up to the summit. The snow arrette was sharp edged with fairly soft new snow. We found snow flukes to be useful for running belays in the fresh snow. We were back at the car by 6 pm, so we did the route in 24 hours from car to car. We had good firm snow to walk on for the whole route above the bivy site. If a lot of that snow has melted then the route will be a good deal slower and more laborious. On the descent, the lower boulder fields seemed to go on forever. This was one of my favorite climbs ever.

[AJ]

Has anyone done the routes Nelson describes as the "Northeast Face" or the "Northwest Face Couloir"? Any idea of current conditions?