Chiwawa Lyman Glacier question

[JoshK]

Yo...how broken is the Lyman glacier generally? Is this thing tame if you take an easy line up it? I am considering a solo of it but don't remember how slotted the thing is.

 

thanks,

-josh

[sverdina]

Aug '01:

 

 

Crevasses were present above icefall, but were easily bypassed by staying right.

[Juan]

I concur. Stay right and you'll have no problem. I've climbed it in mid-July and late Oct. and never had a problem with cracks.

 

Have fun -- it's a fun route. Long day or nice two day.

 

John Sharp

[mike_holman]

If you are going via Spider Gl., head up over the ridge above, drop into and cross Phelps Basin and climb Chiwawa from the east or south side, the return down the Lyman Gl., skirting it to the west, then complete the loop through Spider Gap. The loop is shorter than up & back via Lyman and a lot more interesting.

[gary_hehn]

Does one really need two tools for this climb for say this coming weekend?

[dmarch]

One would more likely need a way to get past the road which is still gated at Alder Creek.

[gary_hehn]

That was my next question, but I hadn't thought to ask here. Thanks.

 

Still would like to know about the need for a 2nd tool.

[JoshK]

dont' take this as an endorsment but when i did end up climbing it I used only a superlight aluminum axe and aluminum crampons. I also encountered a short section of near-ice but it was short enough that i could gingerly make my way past it. This time of year you'll find nothing but snow and I expect a single mountaineering axe would be the preferred choice for most people.

 

-josh

[gary_hehn]

Thanks for the info Josh. That's pretty much what I expected. The Mountaineer Intermediate Course Recommendations route description recommends a 2nd tool and that threw me off. I think maybe they expect you to look for some ice for practice.

 

I called the Lake Wenatchee Ranger Station today and was told that the Chiwawa River road is closed where the pavement ends and that the last campground that is accessable is at Grouse Creek. Looks like resorting to Plan B is in order. Then, I expect the weather forecast will push it out to Plan C.

 

Thanks again all. This site is great for info like this. Guess I'd better start making $ donations to the cause.

[catbirdseat]

The Lyman has been delisted as an Intermediate Alpine Ice climb. There isn't enough ice anymore. It's a hike.

[JoshK]

The Lyman has been delisted as an Intermediate Alpine Ice climb. There isn't enough ice anymore. It's a hike.

 

So in otherwords the mounties still recommend a minimum of four on a rope team, each with four pickets and rescue gear for this climb. Oh, and the ten essentials.