Don_Serl Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 (edited) Climb: Mount Roach-North Ridge (Hobo's Way) Date of Climb: 7/1/2005 Trip Report: Mount Roach is a fine summit west of Lytton, up in the dry country where one can often get an outing in even when the weather is bad on the coast. Andrew Rennie and I drove up and walked into the west fork of Stryen Creek on Thursday in improving weather, camping NW of the summit after 6 hours travel (one section of bad blow-down above the forks). On the Friday we headed straight up-slope (minimal bush) to reach the ridgecrest, then followed this to the base of the upper ridge (3 hrs from camp). The lower section of the ridge is very compact and somewhat slabby, but is mostly scrambling to about 5.7 - I asked for a top-rope from Andrew on two 5m sections. A gentler section follows. The headwall of the ridge was taken directly. The 1st pitch started with beautiful twin cracks in a corner leading to a moderate-angled offwidth and left angling ramps [40m, 5.9]. The 2nd pitch began with some tenuous leftwards moves up a ramp before thin cracks were reached [30, 5.9]. The final short pitch took excellent cracks on the left [20m, 5.8]. Summit was reached in about 3 hrs climbing [425mH; about AD+]. Descent was made via the easy upper half on the ENE ridge, then a scruffy ramp leading N'ward to the superb treeline lake N of the summit. Camp was regained 11 1/2 hrs after departure. A partial walkout (to a cabin at "The Forks") was made in 2 1/2 hrs in the evening, and civilization was regained in intermittent showers on Sat morning. We were accompanied by a remarkably energetic local wolf/dog cross (except for the actual climbing) - thus the name. A more-full account can be found at: http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=5594 cheers, don p.s. the line climbed is the sun/shade line right of the summit. the descent ramp lies down and left, sunlit. Gear Notes: 45m 10.2mm rope; 9 nuts, 5 cams, 20 biners, slings. We used an iceaxe for a very short portion of the descent ramp; not necessary later in season. Should have carried dogfood... Approach Notes: Mostly good travel on west fork Stryen Creek trail from Stein Valley parking lot. Edited July 6, 2005 by Don_Serl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 yet another nice line... any chance of posting some photos of the climbing here for those of us who don't have bivouac memberships? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 nicely done Don. I guess that weekend when we spoke was no good eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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