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Posted

Has anyone been up to Mt Triumph during the winter or spring? I am looking for beta on early season routes on this peak and/or access considerations and whatever else might be pertinent.

Can you even drive that far on hwy 20 in winter?

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Posted

You can drive well past that on highway 20 in the winter. However, I'm sure the dirt road to the Thorton Lakes trailhead isn't plowed - although this year it's probably driveable quite aways by now. It's sort of south-facing too I think.

Never been there in the winter, but it would seem reasonable - you could avoid the very indirect trail, and just head straight to the Thornton Lakes basin (that's what Beckey suggests for early season attempts)

That picture of the NE ridge in winter conditions, in Selected Climbs II, looks terrifying! Having done the approach in summer, it seems like it would be pretty straightforward in winter too. Does anyone know if the NE ridge has seen a winter ascent?

Posted

I tried to climb Mt Triumph in late march two years ago. We wanted to do the NE ridge but tried the south face? instead because of heavy snow in the approach gully and on the ridge plus real avalnache danger. We made it up about 25% of the south face and turned back because of too much unconsolidated snow and wet rock with no pro. Once on top getting down could be a problem. If you do make it to the top let us know how it was. This year may be better.

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