constance 5/5 and 5/11 [2005]

[highonthesound]

did a solo trip up s. chute/terrible traverse on 5/5. snow covered ledges past the chutes notch were like one really long really terrible traverse. 4.5 hrs up from lake...

 

went up a week later 5/11 with my girlfriend and climbed the n. chute/finger traverse. n. chute full of snow the whole way up to the ridge, also a few snow covered ledges to negotiate before the finger traverse. 7.5 hrs up from lake...

[AJScott]

 

do you have any pictures from the climbs?

[Norman_Clyde]

Very cool.

When I went to solo up there, I brought pickets and a rope for self-belay on steep traverses just in case, not having seen the Terrible Traverse before, but remembering a fatality there back in the 90's. I ended up backing off due to dense fog, not far past the chute notch. I realize that there is a big range of comfort levels regarding steep snow, but what's your opinion re: need for pro?

Edited May 20, 2005 by Norman_Clyde

[thelawgoddess]

nice!!! constance is such a beautiful climb. it was my very first mountaineering trip and we only roped up for the terrible traverse. it didn't seem that bad, but i could imagine it being pretty sketchy depending on conditions.

[highonthesound]

unfortunately i captured all of my images mentally so i can't easily share them with you.

 

as for protecting the terrible traverse, i didn't when i was by myself because the snow felt solid enough (and i didn't have any). would have been reassuring though, especially since i was breaking trail. the following week with my girlfriend i put in a couple pickets on our descent but the snow was so soft that it required burying them very deep...

 

in solid snow, with firm ice axe plants and a good track established, i personally would feel okay without a rope.

[Tweezer]

Im planning on doing constance this next wednesday. How long does it take to get to the lake? and Is four pickets enough to safely cross the TT? Any more recent info on conditions is much appreciated.