New route at Seal cove in Squamish

[Mtnclimber]

The route second over from the left at Seal cove is not in he guide book. I found the route to be alot of fun. In my impression was the best at that area. Does anyone know the name and rating for this route. I put it at 10c because it was only slightly harder than the 10bs next to it. Though all the routes in this area are a bit over rated but still worth a lazy afternoon away from the crouds. I would rate Sole mate at 5.9 not 10b.

[Dru]

The new routes (there are 3 of them) are written up in the "New Routes book" at MEC.

 

I believe the one you think is 10c is rated 10a in that volume.

[Mtnclimber]

hmmmmm. There is only one new route at seal cove that is not in the book. It would be hard to call this route 10a beacuse it is sustained for approx 25 feet and is generously bolted for a 10a. It would be a Yosemite 10a but is much harder than the 10b next to it. I would say that it is much like local boys do good p1 but slightly more sustained in the beginning. I found it fun and enjoyed the surprise of thinking I was on a 5.9 (did not rap with guide book and mistook it for the 5.9 3rd from the left but second in the book.) We gave it a 10c rating because I don't work that hard on 10a/b and it made me think a little. (only a thin seem for the feet and no large crystals- lots of smearing on steep slab.) It could be since it was the first climb of the day I over rated it.

Thanks

[Dru]

there are 3... the other two are further right.

[Mtnclimber]

Those are in the book. This one appears to be new.

 

Thanks for the info

[Dru]

No, these routes are newer than the ones in the book. They were put up in 2004. One takes the crack right of Lost Horizons and the other two are further right. Check the New routes Books at MEC or at Climb-on in squamish for details.

[Mtnclimber]

Nice to see that the new routes have more realistic ratings. Did not see it on Climb-on but will check out the book next time I am in Vancouver.

 

Working on any new routes Dru?

[Dru]

only out here in the Valley at the moment.