[TR] Lane Peak- Middle Gully 4/24/2005

[airmoss]

Climb: Lane Peak-Middle Gully

 

Date of Climb: 4/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the middle gully of Lane Peak yesterday. Boy the snow was soft, especially at the top. I would not do it again until it is feezing over night, at which time it should be really nice. This is one of my favorite training climbs. Great views and just enough steep and exposure to make it interesting.

 

There was a group of about six player in the left gully. Looked pretty nasty and I'm curious to hear how they did. The rock band about half way up was out, and the traverse into the middle gully looked very thin.

 

Most importantly, I'm please to announce that Scale Burger is open for business!

 

Gear Notes:

Ice Axe - I wish it was about 3 feet longer

 

Crampons

Edited April 26, 2005 by airmoss

[Dustin_B]

nice work! which one is the "middle gully"? are you referring to Zipper Couloir or Fly Couloir? got any pics?

[airmoss]

You know, I get the route names all confused. There are three routes on the north side: the fly, zipper, and lover's lane. I've climbed all three. I think the middle route is the fly, but I'm not really sure.

[Dustin_B]

You know, I get the route names all confused. There are three routes on the north side: the fly, zipper, and lover's lane. I've climbed all three. I think the middle route is the fly, but I'm not really sure.

 

From left to right (looking at the north face) they are Lover's Lane, the zipper, and the fly. Whey you said "middle" I was thinking you meant the zipper. When we were up there in the middle of march the zipper was looking somewhat 'thin' for March. We climbed the fly. I would imagine the zipper is looking really thin right now! hence why I asked. perhaps there is another couloir to the right of the fly?

[Dustin_B]

Lane Peak

 

The obvious couloir up the center is the fly. You can't make out the zipper from here but it angles up left from the snowfield at the base of the fly. Lover's Lane is a very thin streak on the left. to which ever route you did

[airmoss]

Ok, I did the Zipper. Thanks for the pics. It was not really that thin, just scary because it was so soft. I had to swim from the point where lovers lane joins the route. Once it freezes it's going to be fantastic.

Edited April 28, 2005 by airmoss

[thos]

We had a great climb up Lovers Lane. Really appreciated the steps you kicked up through the top of the Zipper.Snow was very soft in making the travese into the Zipper, but very Sporty to coin a phrase. Encountered 2 rock steps. 1st was unprotectable, the second we found 1 piton and gladly clipped it. We used crampons, ropes, 2 pickets per team and 1 ice tool. We did not continue to the top as the snow was very soft and we were very tired and had gotten our kicks for the day.