Curtis Ridge -- worth doing?

[robertm]

I am thinking about heading up Curtis Ridge. Is it a classic or should I do something else? I have done lib ridge before so was looking for something else on that side of the mountain. Is ptarmigan better?

 

Any and all responses appreciated.

[Mike_Gauthier]

Hi Robert

 

I'm sure you'll greatly enjoy either route, as I've never heard a complaint about either one. I will add that Curtis Ridge is rarely, rarely climbed. Not that Ptarmigan sees much action either.

 

If you climb Curtis, I'd like to discuss the route with you.

 

Best of luck.

 

Mike

[DonnV]

Robert,

 

I climbed Curtis Ridge many years ago and would absolutely recommend it. It is the most technically challenging (I know that doesn't say a lot on Rainier) and offered the most varied terrain of the different Rainier routes I've done (15 or so), and has great position. There is a spectacular, if small, bivy site near 10K, a small rappel to do just to get to there, and a bit of alternating between snow and rock on the upper route. It probably does have more objective danger than most routes (the snowfields were pretty littered with fallen rock), but we experienced no rockfall at all and the rock we climbed on was really pretty good. We did hear tons of stuff falling off over the Russell Cliffs. There are variations on dealing with the first major rock buttress. Our version gave us one very short pitch of easy 5th class on relatively decent rock and good pro. Other than that, I think we placed 1 screw and clipped a fixed pin as we exited the highest snowfield and entered a narrow couloir that led to the upper slopes of Liberty Cap. One consideration on this route is that the hardest routefinding is right above your bivy. Bring at least one serious headlamp.

 

We approached in the afternoon from White River, spent one night at St Elmo's Pass, next night at 10K, then summitted and came down the Emmons on day 3.

 

I've also done Ptarmigan and I'm heading back to do it again this year. The high camp at 10,200 is as good as it gets and puts you up close and personal (but totally out of danger) with the huge ice cliffs on Liberty Wall. Our climb was a winter epic that made everything above high camp pure hell, so I can't really sing the praises of the upper route. But like Curtis, I think it's a route that offers more varied terrain (and route variations) on the upper section than most of the other more commonly done Rainier routes. You aren't just endlessly trudging above 10K. I'm really looking forward to getting back there in more sane conditions.

 

My opinion is that both of these routes are more interesting, challenging, and aesthetic than Liberty Ridge. Hope you get onto one of 'em and good luck if you do.

 

Donn

[robertm]

Thanks for the info! I am looking at Mid - Late May so hopefully the rockfall will not be increased by this low snow year. Donnv - your itenerary is the exact one we were looking at.

 

Gator - I see that you are visiting the empire on 5/12 so I will try to touch bases with you.

 

Later - R

[iceaxedave]

robertM. My climbing buddy and I are looking to take on curtis ridge over the memorial day holiday. Any information you get (if you go sooner) would be greatly appreciated. If you are going on memorial day weekend, we'll see you there!