bobbyperu Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 wanted to pass on some info to those interested... the 1st pitch of "model worker" at the L.T.W. @ index is first off super cool (especially when youre 6'4" and can cheat your way up...and across) really memorable moves from the first to the last. i didn't use the carabiner in the hole trick, instead opted for a green camalot in the overlap below...to protect the opening moves. from here there are sweet face moves up and across, then up and across under an arch to an awesome corner crack (fixed) when you finally reach above the arch, and karate chop the corner its just jams to the rotten tree and fucked belay which brings me to the reason behind this post... #1 the tree is waaay wobbly...and has some loose chunks of rock behind it as well, that with some more vigorous yanking will come out. #2 this whole area is like a giant egg-shell when you touch anything around it emits a deep dull ring. when starting up the second pitch you can look all the way thru to princly...the gear here right off the belay is behind all the loose shit so use some caution...also while moving my foot up the wall my toe caught the underside of a flake, revealing itself as a 2' wide 1/4" thick blade of granite ready to detach and give my partner the chop anyway below the crux, higher up the gear may improve marginally, but being around all that otherwise sketch rock, and doing 11b/c moves until good pro is reached(fixed) is pretty heads up... with the tree gone, no belayer in the fall zone, and more rope out thus decreasing the fall forces, this could be a cool 1 pitch affair...anyone else been above the first pitch, and have some experience to share..? oh yeah and #3 what the fuck is with the station atop p1...the chains are of uneven length, and the quick-link on one is not even all the way tightened...the rusted out nature made it impossible to tighten without tools...should be replaced anyway...looks like i got some work to do...i thought i went climbing to get away from work... but all in all index was absolutly fabulous yesturday, and its looking like another gorgous day shaping up... see ya there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Thanks for being the civic minded climber you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 a lot of shit needs replaceing... this sounds pretty bomber compared to some of the shit out there... HAHAHAHA work is a mother fucker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted April 1, 2005 Author Share Posted April 1, 2005 so i recieved word from my partner on model worker, that he went by top down to clean things up on the 2nd pitch... the killer flake that was poised to give the chop directly above the belay is now resting in chunks at the base...the scar revealed a much bigger chunk than we originally thought. good to have this time bomb off the cliff. the tree continues to resist efforts so maybe its staying. otherwise the upper portion has been cleaned up a bit thanks homie anyway this should be a sweet long pitch, with alot of variety of moves, good protection at the hard bits, and a small section of careful climbing, with questionable gear above the midway anchor and tree... anyway it was wet in spots today, but climbable, and nice with all the blossoms showing their colors, and the peaks blanketed in sno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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