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Strength Loss in Wet Ropes


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given the current deluge, this article is of interest:



shocking bottom line: wet ropes can see the number of falls held reduced to 30% of original! (note that this is not the same thing as having their strength reduced to 30% of original)


slightly less shocking: iced ropes only suffer 50% reduction in number of UIAA falls held.


not that i ever doubted that double ropes were the way to go for ice climbing (for a variety of reasons), but this is a clincher.


btw, there's lots of other good reading about various rope-related matters (all from the Alpine Club of Canada website, directed courtesy mec.ca) at:



probably won't be climbing much this weekend - here's a chance to catch up on the reading...



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