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given the current deluge, this article is of interest:

http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/wet%20ropes%20text.rtf

 

shocking bottom line: wet ropes can see the number of falls held reduced to 30% of original! (note that this is not the same thing as having their strength reduced to 30% of original)

 

slightly less shocking: iced ropes only suffer 50% reduction in number of UIAA falls held.

 

not that i ever doubted that double ropes were the way to go for ice climbing (for a variety of reasons), but this is a clincher.

 

btw, there's lots of other good reading about various rope-related matters (all from the Alpine Club of Canada website, directed courtesy mec.ca) at:

http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html#articles

 

probably won't be climbing much this weekend - here's a chance to catch up on the reading...

 

cheers,

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