Is anything left?!

[Baltoro]

I was looking forward to 3 days in Lillooet area which became 3 in WA which is now looking more like a couple of hopefully good football games. I was hoping for Alpental area (Chair NF or NEB, maybe da Tooph, and who knows what else. Is anything going to be climbable still after this heat wave?? Assuming avy comditions are ok by Monday, I still hope to salvage some of my time off but is it going to be worth the slog in? I haven't been on ice long so I really don't know what to expect as to the condition of these climbs after this much heat. I know if it all freezes up things should be great but is it too late for that? Any info that anyone can pass along would be great. Thanks!

[gyselinck]

Post deleted by gyselinck

[glassgowkiss]

i am sure if you go to the mountains right now we will hear about it i the form of news of another search and rescue. look at avi forecast.

as far as lillooet, maybe marble could be ok, if you like climbing in the rain. temps in clinton were much colder, so i don't think ice would be that bad. or go to the rockies son.

South Coast Date Issued: 1/19/2005 12:00:00 AM

Valid Until: 1/21/2005 12:00:00 AM

Forecast of Avalanche Danger: Wednesday Thursday Friday

Alpine High High Considerable

Treeline High High Considerable

Below Treeline High Considerable Considerable

 

 

Travel Advisory: The saying “unusual weather brings unusual avalanches” best describes the evolving situation over the next few days. Unprecedented amounts of rain since Monday has saturated the snowpack with water causing it to become unstable and avalanche. There is a great deal of uncertainty in the integrity of the snow at treeline and below. Most experienced people do not feel confident predicting where and when avalanches will occur. But we are all assuming that these slides may initiate in or run into unexpected locations. We recommend that people continue to stay well away from avalanche terrain. Typical routes through the forest may also not be safe due to unstable slopes high above in the alpine.

Avalanche Activity: Natural avalanches to Size 3.0, which are powerful enough to destroy a car or easily bury you, have occurred on a variety aspects initiating at treeline and above. Larger avalanches may have occurred but observers cannot see them yet. We expect that the bulk of avalanche activity has passed, but more avalanches are likely. Some of these slides may occur from unexpected locations at treeline and below.

Snow Pack: Heavy rain has saturated the snowpack causing it to become very wet and weak. New snow above 1900m is being transported into windslabs primarily on north and east aspects. These slabs are unstable and will likely slide if you ride on them.

Weather: Heavy rain will continue Wednesday and early Thursday below about 1900 m and snow at higher elevations. Expect to see a brief break in precipitation late Thursday through Friday before another strong storm hits the region. The wind on Wednesday and Thursday is expected to be strong from the southwest.

Issued By: GJohnson

 

Edited January 20, 2005 by glassgowkiss

[Baltoro]

Glassgowkiss,

I may have come off as sounding a little too green. I was just looking for input from folks who may have been on some of these climbs recently who might know if there's enough snow/ice coverage to survive after this warming trend. I've made plans to climb chair peak a half dozen times or so and have yet to get up there due to poor avy conditions and I'm certainly not about to ignore them now. Based on my original post I'd probably have replied with something similiar so I certainly appreciate your response.