Twin Pillars (Prineville, OR)?

[fgw]

Anyone done these? Nick Dodge is the only source I could find. He lists 3 routes: 2 on the main pillar and one on the lower pillar (easiest summit routes go at 5.7 & 5.7 A2; Dodge makes it sound like each route is about 2 p long).

Any additional beta would be appreciated. thanks.

[John Frieh]

PM Retired or OldManRock. If they haven't they will at least know someone who has.

[fgw]

Thank you.

[Don_Gonthier]

I've been there. Tried to do the 5.7 on the upper pillar. Only got up about 30 feet. The climbing wasn't that hard as far as we got and didn't look any worse, at least to the top of the first pitch, but the rock is interesting and there is not much good gear. I wouldn't mind going back so long as we don't also bring along significant others and siblings and their dogs. Getting scetched on bad rock with shitty gear is a joy best savored with only a belayer around.

[stiffler]

Please ignore Dons churlish remarks with regards to the completely inappropriate entourage I travelled with on that trip. Furthermore, The Don neglects to mention his argumentative and pedantic nature which turned a pleasant hike through the woods into a Bataan March of pontification. While it is true that the mobile circus-in-tow did nothing to help our efforts, the real point of the trip was to see these behemoths up close, and in that regard, the trip was a success.

Tried to do the 5.7 on the upper pillar. Only got up about 30 feet. The climbing wasn't that hard as far as we got and didn't look any worse, at least to the top of the first pitch, but the rock is interesting and there is not much good gear

I think in these statements The Don really downplays the crappy, life threatening quality of the rock. To my recollection, which has steel trap clarity, it was big, steep, runout as hell, and remote enough that a fall resulting in a twisted ankle or break of any kind could result in a mega-epic.

Having sought out and climbed a few of the tottering death piles, and having meager skills (at best) with which to work, it is my estimation that like many other Oregon pinnacles and summits, the Twin Pillars are best appreciated through binoculars. I would love someone to prove me wrong.

I have a few pics, and I contacted the original FA party, so I can give you a few more details if you are really interested.

Don, you know we have some unfinished business out east, and in the Willamette Valley.... now that we don't sleep under the same roof I never hear from you? What am I, chopped liver?

[John Frieh]

Classic.

 

I'd be interested in getting all the info you have.

[fgw]

Ditto here.

Thanks.

[Don_Gonthier]

Sorry Stiffler. I didn't mean to imply that it wasn't a fun trip, its just that when normal folks are around the "wrestling with my personal deamons in the bleak wilderness" thing can feel a little silly. It's way too easy to find something sensible to do with my time. After all, would you want to climb the runout choss with your mother watching.

Anyway. I stand by the interesting description. We didn't get high enough to get really scared and there was gear but it was hard to get in and hard to tell whether it would hold a fall. I would like to go back, I just might not get any higher than last time. By the way, does anyone know where I can find some personal deamons?