Adjusting Grivel G14 Crampomatics

[jaee]

After almost falling 10+ feet on a poor screw after one of these things popped off, I'd like to hear other experiences getting these adjusted right. The bail fits well in the slot on my boot (LaSportive K4S) but I have a hard time getting the heel adjusted properly.

 

This may seem overly complicated, but so is the heelpiece. Here's the best image I have:

NOTE: I have crampomatics (steel bail) not the pictured newmatics.

 

The arrow marks a section of the heel lever that is a small point that sticks out from the rest of the lever. If I crank up the pressure on my adjustment knob these points dig in to the rubber on the heel of the boot and fold over. However, I know this must be too loose or it wouldn't fall off every once in a while.

 

I'm thinking these little points must go. Who's with me?

 

Otherwise, the design of these crampons rock. They require so much less effort than my old Rambos or G10s on anything. The agressive secondary points are bomber and overall the crampon is super stable (when it stays on ).

[Nick]

I have the same crampons (with steel toe bail) and have no problem with the heel piece. If you got it so tight that it bent the plastic It was way too tight. The heel piece should hold the boot on very firmly without screwing it down so tight. Perhaps the crampon just doesn't fit your size or type of boot well enough, or perhaps you don't have the crampon length adjusted right for your boot. If you bent the plastic enough to weaken it you may need to cut those nubs off, or replace the whole plastic part, to get a firm connection. I find that if crampons fit the boot right you should not need to make the heel clamp extremely tight. I use the G14 cramps with Scarpa Alpha Ice boots (smallish ones) and they work great.

[cracked]

I broked the adjustment barrel on my G12s while climbing last weekend. I had them tight since one had popped off my boot in Lillooet last year (probably was my fault since it never happened again). So don't go too tight! I noticed that the plastic was folding over, like yours, before they broke. Guess that's a bad indicator.

 

Is the heel groove of your boot very shallow or sloping? Can you grind some plastic away to get a better fit? Is the boot sole like my old Sportiva Eigers in that the crampon ledge is not plastic but rubber? If so, could the rubber have deformed enough for the crampon to pop off? Maybe you can replace it with a black diamond or petzl bail that fits your boot better?

 

Either way, I wouldn't go sawing away at the heel piece...it works fine for so many people that I'd think the problem is in your boots, not the crampons.

 

Good luck.

[jaee]

Thanks for the info. I think the problem is that the ledge and rand around the ledge is rubber, so the little points stick rather than slide and that increases the force needed to snap the lever closed.

 

I am aware that folding the points over is a Bad Thing . However, I still think the crampons are not tight enough or else they wouldn't fall off.

 

I think I just need to try a different lever system. More as it develops.