Gaston Posted December 21, 2004 Posted December 21, 2004 It's a grandiose route for a short variation on South Side. What I climbed is just left of the line marked 1C in Oregon High. I found a gully full of EXCELLENT water ice, alpine ice, and neve. It was enclosed at times by ribs of rime on either side, with occasional open sections which gave a sense of exposure. I climbed about two pitches of mostyly 50 degree stuff, with little steeper steps that were barely body-length. The only insecure part of the climb is topping out on a little spur ridge adorned with basketball-sized chunks of ice cemented together by rime. From there it's a short slog to the top. A highly enjoyable winter alternative to the hogsback and pearly gates, and a good consolation when you get shut down by west-side conditions. I had two tools, which I suppose aren't necessary. One could get screws in here and there, and probably a decent belay for the top-out. Quote
cluck Posted December 21, 2004 Posted December 21, 2004 Saw you topping out the little bouldery crux you described. Sounds like you had a great climb. Good on ya. How about that weather? Sure was warm and calm for December. Quote
iain Posted December 21, 2004 Posted December 21, 2004 I was lying down in a t-shirt on the summit on Saturday, and casually hopped into the skis w/o gloves on for some great corn skiing. Spring corn on HOoD in late Dec! Gaston I probably walked by you up there. Quote
iain Posted December 21, 2004 Posted December 21, 2004 I hope everyone up there the last few days got a chance to see St. Helens smoking away too! That was incredible in the calm air. Surreal, almost. Quote
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