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Climb: Mt. Baker-Coleman Headwall

 

Date of Climb: 11/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

My buddy John and I left Bellingham at 6am and we started hiking at 7h30. The glacier was very firm and we reached the bottom of the headwall at 11h30.

 

The route is in awesome condition. We started out on a 40m ice flow that was 3+/4. The whole headwall was either ice or very firm snow and we frontpointed up the entire thing. We top out just before sunset and after getting lost in the crevasse fields several times, made it to the car at 10pm. Stellar route.

 

Gear Notes:

6 ice screws. 3 rapid runners. 2 screamers. 2 pickets. Could have used a couple more runners, the pickets could have been used in spots, although there was a bunch of ice and screws were the safer bet.

 

Approach Notes:

Almost no snow on trail or route. The past days of warm temps and sun have turned it to ice.

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