Tieton Question

[JayB]

What's the deal with the first section of nice looking columns on the left (adjacent to a few ponds) after you turn left onto the road that paralells the river?

 

From a distance the rock quality looks pretty good, yet there seems to be relatively little information about the rocks out there. Was there an agreement with the land managers to leave that section alone? Is the rock actually not good? Did the crew that developed most of the climbing in the canyon move on before they could get to this section?

 

I will be getting a photocopy of the out-of-print guidebook pretty soon, which may shed some light on the situation, but feel free to chime in if you know the story.

[sobo]

The area you describe is known locally as Tim Pond Wall. There is an "informal" agreement with the Wildlife Area Manager that we'll leave this area alone for the time being. Years back, it was the preferred area for nesting raptors, but they moved further upstream in the past few years (choosing to nest between Royal Columns and The Bend now).

 

While the area is not "officially closed", the locals are respecting the previous understanding. Bear in mind, also, that any development at TPW will be effectively "right under the landowner's nose" and subject to some pretty intense scrutiny.

 

The rock is also quite lichen-y, as you will note by its irridescent greenish-yellow hue. I have an original edition of Matt Christensen's guide to Royal Columns, and it makes no mention of climbs on TPW. I do not know of any, or at least any that see any traffic.

 

Lastly, if you do decide to explore, bear in mind that you will have to cross (wade) the river at Tim Pond, as accessing the river trail from the bridge at Royal Columns is now considered trespassing, as that segment of the trail is, and has been, closed for many years.

 

Last comment: Please don't go there. But if you must, tread verrrrry lightly. You're being watched...

[sobo]

Old thread here.

[JayB]

Cool. There's enough existing classics in Tieton to keep me busy for many an outing - I just thought there must be some reason why there's no lines/development in such a conspicuous section of nice looking rock. Rest assured that after driving for three hours any time I spend in Tieton will be spent climbing, rather than cleaning.

 

Hell -it will take me quite a while just to tap out The Bend. Did a few more lines in that area this weekend, Sugar Kicks and that one to the right of Pure Joy, and the one to the right of Tiers Roof, etc, etc, etc. I want to hit Pure joy and the other handful of lines I haven't been on yet on the right side of The Bend, then check out the other side, then move onto the next crag down the road.

 

Sugar kicks was a fairly interesting experience, as I was looking for a kicked back line to end the day with, cast a quick glance at the topo in Smoot's book, saw the .9 on the line, and figured that he was following the normal convention of highlighting the crux. After finishing up the route and rapping to the base, I was thinking, "I knew the ratings were stiff here but Jesus Christ almighty - that has to be one of the toughest 5.9's I've ever climbed!" Then I looked in the book, saw that - despite the notation on the topo, the line was actually rated 10c, and felt a bit better. Turned out to be my hardest onsight on a gear route so far though - so I guess I should be thankful for the topo as I wouldn't have hopped on the line that afternoon otherwise.

[andyf]

Sobo's hit it on the head. "Locals" have avoided TPW for habitat reasons, plus if you hike to the crag, you'll find out the rock is decidedly inferior to other Tieton areas (generally decomposed and vegetated). IMHO, it should be left alone.

 

Good job on Sugar Kicks, JayB! It's a fun route.

[sobo]

Lastly, if you do decide to explore, bear in mind that you will have to cross (wade) the river at Tim Pond, as accessing the river trail from the bridge at Royal Columns is now considered trespassing, as that segment of the trail is, and has been, closed for many years.

 

A CORRECTION, FOR THE MASSES:

 

I was up at Royal Columns today doing some easy cracks (it was BF cold, but we had the whole place to ourselves ) and noted that the trail downstream of the bridge is now OPEN. Walked down it almost all the way to TPW, but it was getting rather dark by then, so I came back. I would say the trail is open, but please respect the local ethic and don't try to put anyhthing up across from Tim's Pond. TIA.

 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

[ApeMan]

Hey Paul, good to see you are still getting out there. I met up with Crag recently and have him trying out kayaking at the club pool sessions. If you recheck your Christensen guide you'll find that there is at least 1, 5.7 windy, multi pitch trad route in the center of the cliff band at TPW. I've done some exploring there and there is also a bolted route that goes up one of the columns there. (I think it was put up by that guy who used all those rusted bolts and chains) Back when I thought I might enjoy aid climbing I did some solo aiding in the right facing crack system of that same pillar. It looked to be in the hard .10, .11ish range to me. Currently that whole area is closed for raptor nesting though.

Larry

[sobo]

LJN,

You convinced Cragg to get into a kayak? HAHAHA! That's priceless!