Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Rumor has it that the golden arch is the best aid line on the upper town wall, anyone agree, disagree? also, any special trickery or rack recommendations? and, what's up with the crux a3+ pitch? Is it still a3+, and what exactly does a3+ mean at index? some may think that last question is stoo-pid but I've noticed quite a disceprancy between aid ratings at index and those at squamish, any thoughts?

  • Replies 1
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

It is a very different line from the more standard aid lines on the UTW in that the rock is more massive and less featured. Interestingly enough it's also the only non-clean aid route (A) in the PNW I've been on that it not heavily scarred by pitons.

 

The start of the crux pitch is definitely a bit sketchy. A mix of old rusty tied-off pins, hooks, expando cams in thin flakes and fixed heads for the first 30 feet. Then it gets easier. A3 for sure.

 

There are rumors of it having gone clean. The corners generally don't take camhooks, so maybe on a triple set of Lowe Balls or something. Unless there is a definitive answer to that I say bring your hammer and have fun. It's a great place to beat lots of iron and a nice route to boot.

 

Bring.....

 

doubles of short LA's that's #1,#2,#3

two short, thick Bugaboos

two baby angles

hooks from small to big

std aid rack to 3"

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...