Moving again... anyone got any climbing info?

[scrambled_legs]

Just found out that I'm going to be getting posted to either Toronto or Winnipeg area... anybody got any info on climbing in those areas? If you were moving where would you go?? I know that most of you would probably avoid both areas like the plague and if I could I would too. I can't believe I was complaining about Vancouver winters a few months ago. Any info is appreciated!!!

[TimL]

Hey SL -

 

I've been going in between Toronto and Seattle for the past six months or so. In my humble opinion, Toronto is a really nice city in which to live, but an asshole for climbing. If you get posted to Toronto, prepare for longer drives to get to decent climbing areas. The Adirondaks are 6-7 hours away. The Gunks, which are amazing, are 7-8 hours away. Cannon Cliff and Cathedral Ledge are about 9-10 hours away. The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is about 8-10 hours aways. In winter there is some ice climbing around in the 1-4 hour driving range with alot of the popular East Coast climbing destinations from 6-10 hours away.

 

Specifically around Toronto, there are Limestone crags, Mt Nemo, Kelso & Milton in the 1-2 hour driving range. These crags are OK and offer a variety of limestone trad routes and harder bolted sport climbs. By far the best place in the general area is the the Lions Head vicinity. Amazing limestone pocket pulling with a cool ambiance down on Lake Ontario. By far the best place I've been to in the area.

 

If you really like climbing and being outdoors, leave your job and find another in Vancouver. The only reason tha tI can stand it here is I know I'll be leaving the area for good at the beginning of the year.

 

Toronto also has 3-4 climbing gyms. I've only been to one and its OK.

 

Let me knowif you need any more beta.

 

 

Tim

[Ponzini]

If you move to Winnipeg, you may want to take up buildering to satisfy your climbing urges - www.buildering.net

[SublimeSalamander]

Hey there legs,

I'm a former East Coastie myself. Although I can't think of any specific area outside of Toronto there is some good climbing outside my home town of Warren Pennsylvania; witch is only 1 1/2 - 2 hours away from Toronto. Check out both of the links from www.rockclimbing.com . Both areas are withing a half hour of each other so you could hit both areas in one trip. Good luck.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1065

 

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1909

[mattp]

Tim L left out a climbing area that I used to visit and which I thought was great. A few hours northeast of Toronto, north of Kingston New York, is Bon Echo Provincial Park. This has climbs up to about 400 feet high, on metamorphosed rock that rises right out of the lake. There used to be a Canadian Alpine Club hut on the lake, and you rented motorboats to reach the bottom of the routes. On some climbs, we used to rappel back to the boat. It was FUN! but tended toward being scary. I bet it hasn't been developed as a sport climbing area.

 

Winnepeg is the middle of nowhere, but the north shore of Lake Superior, a couple hundred miles east, has good climbing on the Canadian Shield rock - some pseudo-granite or metamorphosed rock up to a couple hundred feet high. Carolyn on this site climbs there some. A half day's drive southwest of Winnepeg is Devil's Tower. Awesome!

[Geek_the_Greek]

Bon Echo was still going strong, last I heard (earlier this summer). I think it helps considerably to get in with the ACC in terms of using the cabin, getting the boat shuttle, etc. Definitely not a sport area (wear a helmet!), and heavily sandbagged (or so I'm told - like, 5.3 can be a decent climb), but a cool spot to check out.

[postle]

I second the vote for lions head. Cool exposed limestone sport climbing, great summer crag, easy weekending from toronto. once it turns cold suck it up and drive the marathon to the red.

[TimL]

Hey MattP, I've heard great things aboout Bon Echo, but have never had the chance to climb in the area.