catbirdseat Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I'm going o Vantage this weekend to try and avoid the rain. I've never been to Middle East Wall, but I hear it is pretty good. Can you recommend any trad climbs there that are 5.10a and under? I assume there is no raptor restiction any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Sex Party. It looks to be raining there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted September 11, 2004 Share Posted September 11, 2004 all of them. they are all good and solid cracks but usually chilly as they aren't in the sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 13, 2004 Author Share Posted September 13, 2004 We never made it to Middle East Wall, but went to Sunshine Wall and Millennium Wall instead. Climbed Crossing the Threshold, Air Guitar, Steel Grill and Pony Keg, and several other sport climbs including Higher Heel Crescent . I want to thank the older couple we met on Tangled Up In Blue. We were going climb it, but they were already gearing up to do it. They said, "why don't you do Air Guitar". I said, "I've never lead a 5.10a trad route before". They said, "It's easier than TUIB". "Really?", I said, "I've done TUIB before and it wasn't all that hard". So I went and led Air Guitar and they were absolutely right, it wasn't that hard. Â We saw Lucky and his crew cleaning up after the DMB mess. He da Man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted September 13, 2004 Share Posted September 13, 2004 Were you the guys getting reading to climb Air Guitar as we were leaving from Crossing the Threshold? I had an older yellow helmet. Don't know of you remember. Just wonderin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Next time you go try... Â 272 - 5.8 double cracks in left facing corner. Left crack is tips to fingers. Right crack is 4" to 2". Very nice route. Here is looking up at it... Â Theresa's Lingerie - Really nice 5.9 handcrack. Starts out a bit wide, then slims down to 2" with another 4" buldge near the top. Good jambs at the the crux. Â I didn't care for the 5.10A crack between them. Chunky, and mostly face climbing. Not very good jambs. Â Sex Party is known to be the best 10A at Vantage. Unlike the other 3, it is full column height (80 feet, or so), so bring lots of hand sized pieces. You can toprope Lingerie (11d) off the same anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 4, 2004 Author Share Posted October 4, 2004 It looks as though you actually have to jam your feet in the crack, as there are not the usual abundance of incut face holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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