restless native

[layton]

anybody been on it?

Mr. Johnston and his buddy sent me up it, shouting directions to the base from two pitches up sysisphus, playing a games of hot and cold. After much much much uplooking and bolt searching (I made a grid system of all of goat wall) I think i hurt my neck and never found a bolt.

 

Where does it start? anyone got a topo? is it good (for goat wall that is)? why does love hurt?

 

Thank you

[layton]

just did a search. duh.

still, where does it start exactly?

[scott_johnston]

Michael;

 

Sorry that Paul and I (and 3 clients) totally monopolized Sisyphus yesterday. The guiding life can be strange sometimes.

 

Thanks for your understanding anyway and I'm sorry you couldn't find Restless Native. It is a very worthwhile climb. You were SO warm you were almost hot. And our directions may have done more harm than good.

 

Anyway here is another atttempt minus the decibels.

First locate the Goats Beard (ice climb) water streaks. They eminate from the group of largest trees on the main upper ledge. This is a pretty obvious and helpfull landmark. Follow those streaks down to the base of the wall. Notice that there is a bunch of greenery in the scree here due to the regular water course. In fact the poison ivy that guards the base of the route must be negotiated carefully to avoid conatamination of your person or the rope when you flake it out. At the apex of this greenery is a short vertical step (actually has a bit of a bulgy start) of rock leading to a 70 degree slab. The first couple of bolts can be seen on this short (15' step) It is not obvious because it looks slimy and down sloping. Most of the time the water is running well left (20') of the first pitch but in spring the lower parts will be wet.

You disappeared from view as you got near the top of the screen/greenery but you must have been really close.

The upper pitches looked a bit wet yestery day but the lower 5 pitches are great and you can still back off with one rope.

Hope this is helpful.

Scott

PS; If we can get that lazy SOB Burdo to get his ass back over here we can get the rap route done so that you only need one rope for the full climb.

Bryan: If you read this, stop messing around on those silly west side projects. We have work to do.

 

HOpe

[layton]

Thanks Scott!

That was funny having directions yelled across the way. We musta been 10' too far left, didn't want to be in the poison ivy. Now I know. We understood that you were guiding, you got there 1st, and you also put the route up. Luckily I've already been on sysiphus, unlucky for my partner.

[fern]

We climbed Restless Native yesterday. It is the best route I have done on the Goat Wall. Quite peculiar climbing on mostly solid rock. All the calcite will fuzz up your rope like crazy, but you have never placed feet on such good friction. You will feel like a fly.

[Kane]

Definately pretty awsome. We rapped with one 70m, and if I remember right, it looked as though it could be done with a 60. Where is the problem with this? I did not know and was going to go up again, and was going to bring a 60. Look for the grey streak coming down the wall. I think the route starts to the right of this....right up to the huge ramp above.

[fern]

It depends how many raps you want to do. We had a 70 and downscrambled off the ends 2 or 3 times to big ledges. Would be sketchier with a 60 and you would want to not skip stations like we did. It also looks equipped with off-route rap chains to climbers left to rap in FULL 60m ropes (i.e. doubles). There are so many rap anchors it is confusing.

[el jefe]

I climbed this route about a month ago. We had a 70m rope and our experience was similar to fern's: we downscrambled off the ends to large ledges twice, I believe. It was a fun day and a route with interesting climbing.