Juan Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Has anyone climbed this piece of shit via the Beckey 1945 route or the Fries 1977 route? The 1945 thing didn't look like much from our bivi below it in July. Maybe 3rd and 4th class? My friend Doug Walker did it in 1974 and said it was O.K. Looking for a day trip with my wife once the rain stops. Thanks for the beta, Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 If you conceive with your wife on the summit, will she then give birth to triplets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 25, 2004 Author Share Posted August 25, 2004 Given that we already have three little boys ages 1-7, that is the LAST thing we need! Given that I am now fixed, that is the LAST thing I would expect! Phew. Scary thought. Has anyone climbed this piece of shit? Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 John, is the SE Route the "scrambly" looking route farthest from JoBurg, starts at the backside of Mixup ridge to the Triplets summit farthest away from Jburg? I guess I only saw what you did so can't offer you more than you know already, but I agree with you it looks very reasonable and like a cool day to the top of a rare summit. ( Cascade SW route looks scary!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 25, 2004 Author Share Posted August 25, 2004 (edited) I think that is the one (Beckey 1945). Doug thought we should run up it in July once we had agreed to bivi below the Triplets (on the ill-fated J'Berg trip) but I argued for whiskey drinking, and won the argument. He did it in 1974 and said it was easy. Cascade looked much worse for sure, and I know from experience that rockfall is a huge problem on Cascade. Did you rappel down Doug's Direct on your way out from J'Berg? I wonder if I should take something to set one up as my wife can cruise up that stuff but is really careful downclimbing such terrain. I recall that the last few hundred ft. up to the ridge was on nice clean rock. I called it fourth class; I think you called it third. But I am a whimp. Worth noting is that fact that Fred describes Doug's Direct in the Triplet write-up. So for some reason it is a known but seldom used way to get over the ridge. Go figure. About the only reason to do Triplets, I think, is that it probably doesn't see that many people, and would afford good views of a few things. Thanks for your thoughts, Sharp Edited August 26, 2004 by Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 "Did you rappel down Doug's Direct on your way out from J'Berg? I wonder if I should take something to set one up as my wife can cruise up that stuff but is really careful downclimbing such terrain. I recall that the last few hundred ft. up to the ridge was on nice clean rock. " We downclimbed it both directions. On the Formidible side I'd say the climb back up day 2 was scarier somehow than the initial downclimb the first day. On the Cascade Pass side at the very top I was a bit nervous both directions, as there is alot of exposure; but its only the last 100 feet or so, so its pretty fast. I bet you could find a decent block to rap off from the col down the Cascade Pass side, but I dont think you could rap much of the Formidible side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 26, 2004 Author Share Posted August 26, 2004 I agree that the last 100-150 ft. on the Cascade Pass side is really exposed. I had one of those brief "what am I doing here" moments part way up. But the rock is good. On the other side, we were fine going down, but I can see how going up would be a bit nerve wracking as it is loose. As you know we didn't go back that way because we are so fucking smart that we decided to go down to the Middle Fork trail, otherwise known as "Hell's Asshole" after the fire last year. Never again! Live and learn. I appreciate your thoughts here. Maybe no one climbs the Triplets for good reason . . . Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 I would give her a hip belay for downclimbing 2-3 sections that look steep/exposed from above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 26, 2004 Author Share Posted August 26, 2004 I think you are right on there. Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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