looking for recent beta on ne buttress of goode !?

[katie_cryan]

planning to climb the north east buttress of mt goode in 2 weeks. has anyone been up there? even better, has anyone been up there recently? would love any info you could provide!

[klenke]

There's been a couple of groups at least from the CC.com crowd that have been up it this year. See: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000346

This is in the North Cascades section of the website. Click on "The Climber's Wall", scroll down to "North Cascades", then click on this link. I made a bogus post to the relative thread to bring it back to page one. It's called "Go Get Goode". This is the same as the link above.

 

===Paul

[Alasdair]

We just got off last night. Which way are you planning on doing it? This makes a big diffence. I would recomend the boat right now. We walked in from Rainy Pass, here is the beta I have for that route.

Crossing the river is cold, but otherwise ok. If you can do this in the AM there will be a lot less water and it will be easier. I dont recomend the log crossing, as I think it is probably the same log that is described in the Select climbs book. It is rotton and if it broke it would be very serious as it is just above a waterfall.

 

If you want to avoid slide alder print this and take it with you.

The aproach up the slope is not too bad. Follow the left drainage until you get to the cliff band follow the cliffband to the far right until you come to the right most drainage. Follow this drainage up the cliff band on the left of the waterfall. Once above the waterfall follow the open slabs until you come to more alder. Look for a small dry drainage (about 200ft to the left of the main drainage) that has less brush than the surrounding area. Go up this drainage for about 200 yds. Now you have open slopes to the base of the Glacier.

Access to the butress over the Goode Glacier is strait forward. Go to the left of the buttress about a quarte mile and get on to the glacier at the only place it looks easy. Take glacier to ridge.

The glacier does not allow you to climb all the way up to the easy ledges that take you to the crest so get on the ridge whereever possible and climb the loose rock to where you would get on the ridge if the glacier were not broken. This looks hard but it is not, and it is much easier than trying to go strait up. It is solid where it needs to be and well protected.

Everything else is totally strait forward. Look for the ledge to get down on your left about 2 pitches from the summit.

If you are planning on going over storm King Col, I would recomend not. The glacier is steep, broken and a fall would be very serious. If you are comfortable on steep glaciers then ignore what I just said. There is also a lot of objective hazards from falling rock on this glacier as it is littered in basketball size blocks.

 

One more thing, dont do any of your hiking in the dark. There are tons of bear in there. we saw two on the way out. There are bear tracks all over the trail.

 

I hope I did not ruin any of the sence of adventure for you.

[mwills]

here is another fairly recent tr .

[mvs]

Alasdair is right about bears, we saw one, and lots of scat too.