[TR] Squamish- Angel's Crest, Split Pillar, Ultimate Everything 7/29/2004

[Gary_Yngve]

Climb: Squamish-Angel's Crest, Split Pillar, Ultimate Everything

 

Date of Climb: 7/28/2004

 

Trip Report:

Scott Whitomb wanted to go to Squamish for his first time and was looking for a partner. Not scared off by the first impression I gave him over a year ago (an embarassing episode at Smith), he called me back when I sent him an email, "Angel's Crest makes me horny. Call me." This would be Scott's first time in Squamish, and my first time with a partner who could swing leads.

 

After some home-cooked Thai at my apartment, we were off to the Great White North. We were wishing for some heavy firepower at the border when we saw jackasses who didn't want to wait in line like the rest of us cutting through the Nexus line and then idiots who didn't know how to drive letting them in. But soon enough we were across, and we pulled into the campground a little after dark.

 

We got a late start the next day, not expecting many crowds, as it was Monday. Boy, were we wrong. At least seven people ahead of us on Angel's Crest. The party right in front of us was a friendly group of three from Seattle (shoutout to BJ, Jen, and Lonnie -- thanks for the ), who were cruising -- for the first few pitches, they were having to wait behind the party of two in front of them. When a stuck rope cost them some time and gave the party of two ahead of them a little extra room, they offered to let us pass. Anyway, the route was great, and next time we'll need to check out the 10b offwidth and the 10b/c crack on the higher pitches.

 

The second day we got a late start and headed to the Grand Wall. Saw some folks on the Black Dyke who were drilling and drilling... and running into some loose rock. Heard a blood-curdling five-second-long shriek, "ROOOOOOOOOOOCK!" followed by the sound of boulders crashing into the talus below. We climbed Split Pillar via Merci Me (scrambled up the Flake -- long line for Apron Strings). We let some locals who looked fast and had done the route before jump ahead of us. Merci Me was fun -- if I hadn't done a lot of stuff at Darrington last year, it probably would have messed with my head. Split Pillar is fabulous... burly, not many good rests. I should have just powered through the thin part at the bottom instead of burning energy trying to place extra pro. We had thought about checking out the Sword, but after getting worked on the Split Pillar (I was a dumbass and had a thrutchfest in the final chimney), we rapped down. We then met up with Becca, who was enjoying life as a climbing bum and was looking for some partners. Scott then impressively led Exasperator as a single pitch -- quite exasperating, given how the rock was baking under the afternoon heat. Scott and I were both tired, but Becca offered to lead Seasoned in the Sun. We couldn't refuse the opportunity to TR it. Fun climb.

 

The third day we decided to get an early start for a change. 7 AM we were at the base of Diedre, with no one at all above us. Hallelujah! Climbed Diedre in three pitches with a bit of simuling, got to the Squamish Buttress trail by a route that I'd describe as 5.3 with a move of aid (we weren't looking too hard for Boomstick Crack). Found the start to Ultimate Everything without too much trouble. The route was a blast, with interesting and varied climbing. Because the route tends to have a hard pitch followed by an easier pitch, we led in blocks of two, which seemed like an enjoyable way to do it. Aside from the occasional climbing past a bolt we didn't see and the accidental linkup of two pitches with a bit of simuling, routefinding was pretty straight-forward -- good job to the folks who put up the route and made the topo! The 10b finish is stellar, and we'd recommend that to anyone over the 5.9 A0 finish. We climbed the route entirely in the shade, which was a real treat. I got all sorts of weird looks as I ran down the trail (in my sandals) like a bewildered banshee because the black-bean burritos I ate the night before were begging to be paroled.

 

I picked up a pair of those sweet striped longjohns at Valhalla Pure. The woman at the register had a hard time believing that I wanted them for myself.

 

The drive back was uneventful, though we had probably about a half-an-hour wait for the crossing (driving back later may have meant a faster crossing, but it would have meant that we would have been driving back in the dark). The border guard was way cool though:

 

"Where have you guys been?"

<We get all big-eyed and simultaneously say, "Squamish!">

"Climbers, right on!"

<He peeks into the back of our truck and sees gear strewn everywhere.>

"Welcome back!" <and he waves us through>

 

Approach Notes:

The trail with the rock cairn goes up to the Sheriff's Badge. The next trail up the road goes to Angel's Crest. You can still take the Sheriff's Badge trail to Angel's Crest, though it's not as pleasant. Seemed like everyone was falling for it (approaching Angel's Crest via Sheriff's Badge).

 

The new Bourdon book is far superior to the McLean book for identifying trails and routes.

[glassgowkiss]

aaaa, that was you guys who were knocking shit off from angels crest onto the trail on monday.

[Gary_Yngve]

I don't remember anyone knocking off any shit from Angel's Crest. Maybe it happened before we got there. Or maybe it was the dudes behind us who didn't feel like waiting and rapped off.

 

Wednesday we did have a little mishap with a nectarine.